“A-tu’s cat’s ear” and “Squid cooked in Mazu Temple red rice wine” are examples of traditional Yilan snacks. Yilan municipal library and the city’s Chungshan Elementary School have cooperated on a food map called “Really tasty.” Head librarian Chen Chun-jen said all the eateries on the food map are traditional places that have been open for at least 30 years and bring back memories of grandma’s and grandpa’s day.
In an activity called “Reading Yilan, a walk through the old city” organized by the library, students “read” the city by visiting ruins, temples and eateries on foot. Chen said that with the help of a teacher named Chuang Wen-sheng, students from Chungshan Elementary School visited well known eateries on foot and art students completed the publication of the food map.
Chen said the food map includes 35 eateries that have been open for more than 30 years, such as the Chengmen Kong Italian noodles, the Shiliu Kan lemon aiyu — a kind of fig, like a creeping fig or climbing fig — A-mao rice noodle soup, and dabingyuan fish crisp soup. These places offer tastes and bring out memories in everyone in Yilan from grandma and grandpa up to today’s generation. Bringing in young students in the production of the map and showing them around the old city is also intended to pass on the cultural experience.
The creation of these snacks is also connected to the history of Yilan.
Chen said that during the Qing dynasty, goods were transported to Yilan City on the Yilan River after arriving in the port of Wushi in Toucheng. The city’s Ximen— the Western Gate — area was a distribution center and many people gathered there with the result that the snacks and eateries were very developed in the area. The Ximen area was close to present day Wenchang Rd. There is a smattering of food stalls selling meat soup, hongroufan — pork slowly cooked in soy sauce, sugar and spices with rice — and other snacks. From Ximen, goods were transported to Beimen — the Northern Gate — for sale, and more snacks were developed — Italian noodles and garlic meat soup are particularly famous.
Chen said the frequent rain and the humidity in Yilan also affected the production of snacks, and soups and noodles that must be consumed instantly were most common, while dry foods were more rare because they are more difficult to store.
Chen also said there was a curfew during the Qing dynasty during which the city gates were closed. However, the Chengmen Kong — or city gate opening — by the northern gate was open to assist people who wanted a snack, making these snacks a part of the historical memories. The food map completed by the library does not include new restaurants, but it is filled with small eateries laden with emotion and memories. The map can be obtained at the library, or by calling 03-935 5604.
(LIBERTY TIMES, TRANSLATED BY PERRY SVENSSON)
「阿塗貓耳朵」、「媽祖宮紅糟魷魚」,都是宜蘭道地小吃;宜蘭市立圖書館與中山國小合作,完成「勁好吃」美食地圖;圖書館長陳俊仁說,美食地圖都是開店三十年以上的小吃,具有在地特色,也有阿公、阿嬤的回憶。
市立圖書館推「閱讀宜蘭.古城行腳」活動,帶著學生用雙腳閱讀宜蘭城,有古蹟、廟宇,也有美食小吃;陳俊仁說,在莊文生老師協助下,中山國小學生實地走訪宜蘭知名的小吃,並由美術班同學完成美食地圖出版。
陳俊仁說,美食地圖有三十五家小吃,都是開店三十年以上,「城門孔」意麵、「十六坎」檸檬愛玉、「阿茂米粉羹」、「大病院」魚酥羹等,從阿公、阿嬤年代迄今,有很多宜蘭人喜歡的味道與回憶,透過小學生走訪及參與美食地圖製作,也有著傳承的意義。
「小吃的形成與宜蘭歷史發展也有關連。」
陳俊仁說,清朝時期,海運貨物從頭城烏石港經宜蘭河到宜蘭市西門卸貨。西門是集散地,人多的地方,小吃就很發達。西門就在現在的文昌路附近,肉羹、焢肉飯、麵攤林立。貨物從西門運到北門販賣,又形成很多小吃,意麵、蒜味肉羹都很出名。
陳俊仁說,宜蘭多雨,氣候潮濕,也影響小吃製作,湯湯水水比較多,像麵、羹等須立即食用,乾料類較少因為不易保存。
陳俊仁指出,清朝有宵禁,城門關閉,但為了小吃特別在北門開「城門孔」,方便民眾出入,小吃也是歷史的記憶;圖書館完成的美食地圖,不是新開的餐廳,而是充滿感情與回憶的小店,有興趣可向圖書館索取,電話(03)935-5604。
(自由時報記者游明金)
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