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Restaurants: Indo-China Restaurant

At Indo-China Restaurant the food is standard but the stories are top notch. PHOTO: NOAH BUCHAN, TAIPEI TIMES

Wilson Wang's (王煒勛) life could be taken from a Graham Greene novel. After working as an interpreter for the US Navy during the Vietnam War, the Vietnamese national and refugee drifted across Southeast Asia looking for a home. Twenty years ago he landed on these shores where he eventually became a salesman selling yachts to clients in Europe and North America.

Wang seems like he's had as many jobs and speaks as many languages - some fluently, others just a few sentences - as there are dishes on his restaurant's menu. Wang says before opening the restaurant six years ago, he went to Vietnam in search of the best recipes, which he brought back to Taiwan. And though they won't win any prizes for culinary expertise, the chow passes muster.

The restaurant's interior is non-descript - it's more a mom-and-pop style eatery than its upscale neighbors. The servers at most of these swankier joints just go through the motions that they are trained to do when attending to patrons. Wang, on the other hand, welcomes every customer with a warm greeting and, if you are willing to listen, tales from his colorful life.

Indo-China Restaurant Address: 47, Ln 350, Keelung Rd Sec 1, Taipei (台北市基隆路一段350巷47號) Telephone: (02) 2725-1350 Open: Daily from 11am to 9pm Average meal: NT$100 Details: Menu in Chinese and English; credit cards not accepted; delivery available

As I sit down, Wang serves black jelly, a cold beverage made from green beans that is consumed in the summer months to keep the body cool. In addition to the Vietnamese items the menu serves up standard fare from Thailand and Singapore.

The food, as one might expect, is not the stuff of upscale restaurants. However, the ingredients are fresh, the soups and fried rice are not oily and there is a vegetarian menu.

Served with fresh basil, lettuce and mild dipping sauce the spring rolls (NT$60) are as good a place as any to start a meal. The Tom Yum seafood noodle soup (NT$100) was a hit with this reviewer: Generous portions of seafood and fresh vegetables were brought to the table in a soup that made the taste buds quiver. The pork and noodles in fish sauce (NT$100) is also tasty, served with a sauce made of lemon, vinegar, garlic and chili.

Wang recommends the Vietnamese curry and seafood noodle soup (NT$100) and spicy curry fried noodles - choice of beef or pork - (NT$100).

If you were on an intimate night out, it would probably be a good idea to give Indo-China a miss. But if you are looking for a little raw culture with your meal, Wang's recipes and stories of a mysterious life will keep you enthralled.

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