Mon, Mar 22, 2010 page12

• FEATURE : Tea houses define Taichung identity

  NICE WEATHER, GREAT TEA It’s not only about the bitter drink in your cup, but also the surroundings, with colonial-era buildings, outdoor areas and gardens

  • By Chris Wang / CNA
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  It would be a pity to visit Taichung without a trip to a tea house. For local residents, tea drinking has become a way of life.

  Taiwan may have a long tradition of drinking tea at home or at public gatherings, alone or with friends, but Taichung residents have taken the tradition to another level.

  Traveling through the city of 1 million residents, visitors will notice tea houses of various styles and sizes scattered almost everywhere.

  Many kinds of teas are served, including traditional Chinese standbys like oolong tea as well as modern variants such as “bubble red tea” or “pearl milk tea” — milk tea mixed with tapioca balls — and coffee.

  “Starting when I was in high school, I think I must have gone to tea houses hundreds of times, whether to study or have a casual chat with friends,” said 36-year old Trevor Huang, adding that it was “trendy” at the time and remains so today.

  Steve Wang, 24, said that whenever friends visit from out of town, the first place he takes them is a tea house because it is “a natural thing to do.”

  No one knows exactly how the tradition started; Taichung doesn’t have a tea-growing industry.

  However, Spring Water Tea House (春水堂), one of the most famous local tea houses, claims to be the creator of bubble red tea in 1983 and pearl milk tea in 1987, both of which are now sold throughout the country and as far away as Los Angeles, California.

  The claim has not been challenged.

  Visiting different tea houses can be an adventure. Those seeking history and tradition will appreciate Laughtear Chinese Tea House (悲歡歲月人文茶館), an 80-year-old bungalow that was the residence of a university professor during the Japanese colonial era. Laughtear serves only Chinese tea.

  Others might want to take in Tea Work’s unique architectural style, large lawn and an outdoor seating area, or Wu Wei Tsao Tang (無為草堂), a two-story wooden structure that covers 992m² and has a Chinese garden. Both shops can seat about 300 customers.

  “Back in the old days, we spent NT$25 on a cup of tea and stayed in a tea house for hours playing cards, chatting or studying. It was the place to go when we wanted to relax. For myself and a lot of Taichung residents, I guess the experience stayed with us and never left,” Huang said.

  “I don’t really know where it [tea drinking] came from. But it was here, it is here and it will remain here, I guess, “ he said.

  The Taichung City Government has taken notice and recognized the culture as a resource for promoting tourism, even producing a pamphlet on tea houses in the city.

  “When it comes to Taichung, tea houses are probably the first thing we tell our friends and visitors about and the only thing local residents can take pride in — other than the good weather,” Wang said.
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