All that waitress Thabile Vilakazi requires is some corn flour, sorghum malt and three liters of water to concoct five liters of the creamy, thick traditional South African brew known as umqombothi.
Since South African President Cyril Ramaphosa banned alcohol sales as part of a COVID-19 shutdown, booze-deprived South Africans have turned to homebrew fermenting to get around the prohibition.
“The idea came because there is no alcohol. There is no supply of alcohol anywhere,” said 32-year-old Vilakazi, stuck at home in the Johannesburg suburb of Randburg.
Fermented over at least three days, making umqombothi is inexpensive, but time-consuming.
Although also served at special ceremonies where ancestral spirits are evoked, such as at funerals and weddings, the brew with a creamy texture and a pungent smell is gaining popularity.
“It’s a very sacred beverage,” said Vilakazi, adding that it is the first time she has tried to make the beverage, usually the preserve of her eldest sister for family ceremonies.
The premixture of corn and sorghum can also be cooked and served as a breakfast porridge, and it is believed to soothe stomach ulcers.
However, the sudden dearth of liquor sales has inspired creativity on how to get tipsy.
A plethora of recipes, tips and hints are being shared on social media by chefs and novices alike.
According to data on the Google Trends Web site, there has been a rise in the search on “how to make your own alcohol” — starting especially as the country entered its second week of lockdown.
“This lockdown is taking us back to our roots, especially for the African youth who aren’t aware of traditional life,” traditional healer Luthando Finca said, adding that the regular use and widening popularity of the brew was reminiscent of precolonial African society.
“Umqombothi was enjoyed widely in African communities before Western beverages were brought onto the market,” Finca said.
In a 1999 study, author Anne Mager said that the notion of “European liquor” in colonial discourse suggested that the liquor of colonial masters was something to aspire to among Africans.
“‘European liquor’ was repeatedly contrasted to indigenous brews of lower alcoholic content that were pronounced to be uncivilized and primitive,” Mager added. “It implied that drinkers of sorghum beer, palm wine and other beverages fermented from African grains and fruits would progress to the ‘superior’ beverages of their colonial masters.”
The coronavirus regulations have pushed locals to return to ancient methods of making alcohol, “reminding us of our history and heritage,” Finca said.
According to a 2016 WHO report, South Africa rubs shoulders with the top 10 heaviest-consuming nations as the average drinker had 30 liters of pure alcohol.
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