As the tide ebbs, a dozen Kinmen residents put on rubber boots and wade out to sea to buy groceries from a sampan which has sailed across the short stretch of water between the Taiwan-ruled island and China.
Shoppers browse for a wide selection of fruit, vegetables and fish until a Taiwan coastguard patrol boat approaches to interrupt the trade.
PHOTO: CHANG CHIA-MING, TAIPEI TIMES
Though illegal, for years the scene has been a daily routine in Kinmen, which sits on China's doorstep.
A move by Taiwan's government to open direct trade and travel with China on Jan. 1 will at last decriminalize what Taipei considers smuggling.
Direct trade, transport, and postal links between the island groups of Kinmen and Matsu and China are called the "small three links" (小三通) because wider links between Taiwan and China are still banned.
Up until now, Taiwan has demanded that all exchanges with China go through third countries, although smugglers from both sides do a roaring trade across the Taiwan Strait, and Taiwan fishermen regularly put ashore in China.
Beijing encourages small-scale trade between the islands and its coastal province of Fujian.
But while people in the heavily fortified island groups of Kinmen and Matsu like to buy cheap Chinese goods, many fear the consequences of throwing open the door to China.
"I don't think it's a good idea. I'm afraid the streets may not be safe at night," said a grocer in downtown Kinmen who sells Chinese peanuts, mushrooms and rice much cheaper than similar Taiwan products.
"The older generation used to tell stories of mainland bandits sneaking ashore to kidnap people," said the grocer, who gave her name as just Chen (
Chen declined to say how she got what she called dirt-cheap Chinese goods, but said it was no problem to sell them openly.
Like a game of cat and mouse, police patrol the long coastline and constantly chase away smugglers, but Kinmen residents and Chinese fishermen appear to know how and where to do business.
Farmer-turned-laborer Chou Chien-sheng (
"Their labor is very cheap. I already gave up farming. Once they are allowed to come, they could easily take my job," Chou said as he inspected renovation work in Liaolo harbor, which will be used for the direct links.
Chou earns about NT$1,000 a day, while a Chinese worker would only get about NT$100.
Beijing on Thursday grudgingly accepted Taipei's plan for the limited exchanges, though it has yet to agree to let Chinese residents visit the islands.
China's state news agency quoted an official in Fujian as saying the Taiwan plan did not go far enough and "indicates that the Taiwan authorities lack sincerity and goodwill in realizing direct services."
Nevertheless, the official with the Fujian Taiwan Affairs Office said "the mainland is willing to help" with the links.
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