Paris designers have showcased casually luxurious outfits to take men from the boardroom to the bedroom, proving that dressing down has never been so chic.
The displays by Emanuel Ungaro and Shawn Collins were a welcome alternative to the glut of suits seen on the catwalks this season.
French designer Franck Boclet, now in his second season at Ungaro, loosened up the silhouette with dressing gown coats layered with long cashmere or fur shawls and tied with a slim cord.
PHOTO :AP
"I'm going for a bohemian chic effect," he said "The silhouette is elegant and different, that of a man who is slightly more mature, a bit more of a dandy and a bit more offbeat."
Though the looks were influenced by the gypsy style of Sarajevo-born filmmaker Emir Kusturica, the effect was sober and modern.
Coats were stripped of their lining for ease, but deep slits in front meant you could easily reach your trouser pockets. Pants were either flowing and loose or high-waisted and slim.
Boclet introduced several new signature effects, including U-shaped pockets and zipper attachments - a subtle way to signal a designer label without having it written on your sleeve.
At Shawn Collins, some of the models looked like they had just stepped out of bed. Knit tracksuit bottoms and chunky slipper socks were inspired by lazy Sundays spent reading the paper.
"I'm just trying to address the issue of modern dressing," Collins said before the show. "I don't really know anyone that wears a suit anymore." (AP)
巴黎服裝設計師展示了一系列奢華的休閒男裝，讓男人從會議室到臥室一樣有型，證明休閒打扮也能很時尚。
和本季伸展台上眾多正式服飾相較，艾曼紐．恩加洛和尚恩．柯林斯展出的服裝成了受歡迎的選擇。
法國設計師法蘭克．波克萊在「恩加洛」的第二季作品，款式更加活潑，設計出飾以喀什米爾長羊毛或毛草披肩，並用細繩綁束的長外套。
「我想展現出波西米亞嬉皮式的風格，」他說：「款式既優雅又與眾不同，適合時髦又品味獨特的輕熟男。」
雖然樣式受到塞拉耶佛出生的電影導演艾米爾．庫斯杜利卡的吉普賽風格影響，但卻給人一種素淨又不失現代感的印象。
為了展現更休閒的感覺，外套都沒有做內裡，正面向下的開口讓人可以輕鬆地觸及褲子口袋，褲子的款式則有寬鬆飄垂或高腰窄管的設計。
波克萊加入了一些新的設計元素，包括U型口袋和拉鍊式連接配件─不用在袖口縫上商標，就能巧妙凸顯設計師品牌。
至於尚恩．柯林斯的部份，走秀模特兒看起來就像剛下床的樣子，針織運動褲搭配厚短襪的靈感來自於出星期天慵懶閱讀報紙的感覺。
「我只是想點出現代服裝的爭議點，」柯林在服裝秀開始前表示：「我幾乎看不到穿成套西裝的人了。」
（美聯社／翻譯：袁星塵）
A: Apart from Taiwanese-language pop diva Jody Chiang’s comeback, South Korean girl group (G)I-dle is also performing in Taiwan this weekend. B: I know. They have concerts at the Taipei Arena on Saturday and Sunday. A: Actually, to meet their fans’ high demand, they’ve added one more show on Friday. B: They’re even adding a show? That shows how popular they are. A: My favorite group member is Taiwan’s Susan Yeh, known by her stage name “Shuhua.” Let’s go cheer her on. A: 本週末除了江蕙復出，南韓熱門女團(G)I-dle也將開唱唷。 B: 我知道，他們本週六、日將在小巨蛋開唱。 A: 應粉絲的要求，他們本週五還會加場。 B: 還加場？不愧是韓流人氣女團。 A: 我最喜歡台灣團員葉舒華！我們快去幫她加油吧。 （By Eddy Chang, Taipei Times／台北時報張聖恩）
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