An exhibition which opened in Athens at the start of this month highlights the short-lived pop mania surrounding paper dresses, which enjoyed a meteoric success in sixties America but are all but forgotten today.
RRRIPP!! Paper Fashion opened at the Benaki Museum on Mar. 2.
It showcases samples ranging from Andy Warhol's legendary "souper dress," modelled on Campbell's Soup labels, to special "campaign dresses" from the 1968 US presidential elections, bearing the likenesses of Robert Kennedy and Richard Nixon.
PHOTO: AP
The display also showcases video art, domestic kitsch in the form of matching paper plates and napkins and the work of other designers such as John Galliano, Hussein Chalayan, Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo of Comme Des Garcons.
"The paper dress constituted a real craze in the United States, with hundreds of thousands of products released," said exhibit organizer Vassilis Zidianakis.
The historical origins of paper-based dress are also examined through Japanese clothing from the 17th-19th century Edo period, and prisoner uniforms from Belgium and France dating from the 20th century interwar period.
Starting from a publicity campaign by the Scott Paper Company, and priced only at US$1.5 (1.1 euros) per dress, the fad nevertheless proved as ephemeral as its base material, lasting from 1966 to 1968.
RRRIPP!! Paper Fashion will remain open at the Benaki Museum at least until April 7, said museum director Angelos Delivorias.
The exhibition will subsequently travel to London in the autumn for the city's fashion week, before moving to the Luxembourg Museum of Modern Art in 2008.
一場以曾短暫帶動流行的紙製衣為主題的展覽,本月初在雅典開展。六0年代在美國紅極一時的紙製服裝,如今卻乏人問津。
「撕啊!流行紙製衣展」三月二日在貝納基博物館開展。
從安迪?沃荷以湯廚濃湯商標為靈感創作的知名「souper dress(濃湯裝)」,到一九六八年美國總統選舉時,印有羅伯?甘迺迪與理查?尼克森畫像的特殊「campaign dress(競選裝)」都在展品之列。
這項展覽還展出錄影藝術、結合紙盤與餐巾的家庭傭俗藝術,以及其他像約翰?加里安諾、胡辛.恰拉揚、三宅一生和「Comme Des Garcons」創辦人川久保玲等設計師的作品。
策展人瓦西里斯?季帝亞那基斯說:「紙製服裝在美國曾蔚為流行,發表的作品數以萬計。」
紙製衣的歷史可回溯到十七至十九世紀日本江戶時期的服飾,以及二十世紀兩次世界大戰期間比利時和法國的囚服。
首見於史谷脫紙業一場宣傳活動、當時每件定價僅一點五美元(一點一歐元)的紙製衣,引領流行的時間就跟它基材的耐受度一樣短暫,這股熱潮只從一九六六延燒到一九六八年。
貝納基博物館館長安傑羅斯?達利佛瑞亞斯表示,「撕啊!流行紙製衣展」的展期至少到四月七日為止。
為配合秋季登場的倫敦時裝週,「紙製衣展」隨後將移至倫敦展出,二00八年再移展盧森堡現代美術館。
(法新社/翻譯:林倩如)
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