Yangmingshan offers a few nice summer afternoon getaways in addition to shady forests and breezy pastures. The No. 19 Cafe (19號水岸咖啡館), located a leisurely three-hour walk from Cing Tian Gang (擎天崗), sits among a scattered cluster of mid-priced cafes and restaurants catering to weary hikers and city dwellers out for a drive in the mountains.
Those who follow the bright yellow hand-painted signs that dot Jingshan Road (菁山路) to No. 19 are rewarded with country home comfort and rustic charm.
Lounge around in the cafe’s open and spacious dining area, a converted one-story house fitted with a long row of large French doors that stay open to let the breeze in, as well as the occasional butterfly. The space has a homey, lived-in feel, with well-worn wooden floors, floral tablecloths and plush sofas placed in front of a stone fireplace — just the setting for a pot of Earl Grey (NT$170) or an organic herbal tea (NT$200 to NT$210).
Or sit in the shade at tables next to the outdoor bar and listen to a small brook that runs by the cafe.
Unfortunately the food was a letdown — it was more on par with an overpriced student cafe rather than a mountain retreat. The country garden vegetables (田園鮮蔬義大利麵, NT$290), usually served with pasta (we had rice instead), were doused with an overly sweet tomato sauce that tasted like it either came from a can or was made with ketchup.
The seafood pasta with pesto (青醬海鮮義大利麵,NT$350) would pass the taste test for a hungry hiker, but not a lover of Italian food. The pesto was thin and watery and too salty, while the pasta was cooked too al dente. The dish was tossed with several unshelled prawns, clams and calamari, which didn’t help with the overall appearance. At least the prawns tasted fresh.
Other main course choices include the barbeque pork steak with rice (碳烤香草豬排, NT$360) or the Spanish red wine chicken stew with rice (西班牙紅酒燴雞, NT$350). For dessert, don’t bother with the “homemade” chocolate and green tea cookies (NT$100), which were hard and didn’t taste homemade. A safer bet might be the waffles topped with chocolate or honey (NT$130).
Although the mediocre food hinders No. 19’s appeal as a dinner date destination, the idyllic surroundings still make for an attractive escape from the swelter of the city. It’s easy to imagine returning to spend an afternoon there with a book or even a laptop (but you’ll need a personal 3G connection for surfing the Internet as there is no Wi-Fi).
The coffee is decent. No.19 uses siphon brewers instead of espresso machines. Its selection includes Brazilian (NT$200), Sumatra Mandheling (NT$220) and Blue Mountain (NT$220) blends. The plain iced coffee (NT$170) is flavorful and packs enough of a punch to consider another hike.
If you plan to drive directly there, the cafe’s blog (in Chinese only) has directions with photos (bit.ly/crZEj6).
On public transport, the cafe recommends taking bus 303 from Jiantan MRT Station (劍潭捷運站) to the stop marked “International TV Station” (國際電台) — you’ll see several larger-than-life satellite dishes in the area. From there, follow the cafe’s hand-painted signs.
For hikers, one leisurely itinerary could start with a visit to Cing Tian Gang (擎天崗), a popular spot that has a path (mostly downhill) leading to the Jyuansih Waterfall (涓絲瀑布), about 2.5km away. Continue on the path towards the Jyuansih Waterfall Entrance (涓絲瀑布入口) on Jingshan Road, Lane 101. From there you can take bus 303 to “International TV Station,” and follow the signs to No. 19 Cafe. Or just walk the whole distance — it should take about an hour. Either way, before you go, it’s best to consult a map to plan your route.
From Shilin MRT Station (士林捷運站), take bus S15 (小15), which goes directly to Cing Tian Gang.
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