Darling Cafe, a former art space located near exit No. 7 of the Guting MRT Station (古亭捷運站), looks like it belongs on a list of tiny hip restaurants serving Western-style food. However, with its all-day “brunch” and sandwiches falling short on quality ingredients, the cafe is little more than a fashion victim.
The omelet set (NT$180) offers two choices for filling: cheese, mushroom, vegetables, bacon and ham, or minus the meat. It looked good — the focaccia was fresh and the omelet shaped in a neat pocket.
But the side dishes were throwaways. The salad consisted of limp iceberg lettuce that tasted like it had been in the fridge for two days soaking in an overly sweet creamy dressing, and the tiny hash brown triangles were of the frozen variety. All might be forgiven if this were Dante Coffee — but at this price, it’s inexcusable, even though the set also comes with corn soup and coffee or tea.
My dining companion wanted to like the meal, but halfway through decided that the omelet was too greasy and the salad wasn’t worth finishing.
The Italian chicken sandwich (NT$200 for a set meal) sounded appealing, but the focaccia was its only redeeming feature. The smoked chicken was unremarkable, and then, there it was again — soggy iceberg lettuce, this time lathered in sweet mayonnaise, accompanied by sliced processed cheese. You’re better off just ordering the bread.
Other brunch items on the menu included bagels with eggs or quiche for NT$180 each for the set menu, which includes soup, salad and coffee, tea or a soft drink.
There’s also a selection of Chinese food, which looks overpriced, especially given the “value” you get from the brunches. The menu recommends “fry the sauce” noodles, or zhajiang mian (炸醬麵, NT$180) and braised pettitoes — pig knuckle — and rice (精緻琥珀豬腳飯, NT$240). Sides include assorted vegetables, coffee or tea and dessert, which was green tea jelly on our visit.
Darling Cafe barely salvages points for its artsy but homey interior. The owners clearly put an effort into making the most of a small space — a long, narrow room on the second floor with linoleum tiles that look very 1970s.
The room has a modern vibe, with clean white walls and round mirrors and funky lamps hanging everywhere; there’s also a hint of Shanghai-chic, with ebony tables and chairs contrasting with the bold red floor and ceiling.
The restaurant seats around 20 to 25 people, and there’s also a bar with seating for individual diners, complete with vintage chairs that look like they once sat in a 1950s American diner.
The owners are clearly having fun with details like the purple rattan placemats that match the velvet cushions of a sofa bench, and designer tableware such as tilted soup bowls and oblong-shaped drinking glasses.
With the attention given to comfort and appearances, Darling Cafe could be a decent bistro. It’s too bad the food doesn’t match the design savvy.
If you must go, go for drinks and free Wi-Fi. Espresso drinks and hot chocolate range from NT$80 to NT$130. English style and herbal teas, which include Earl Grey, Assam and rose, are NT$140 for a pot. There’s also a selection of European organic beers, including Calvinus, Naturperle and Vollmond, at NT$250 per bottle.
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