Thu, Apr 03, 2008 page13

• Matsu on the move

  Medieval religion meets 21st century technology when Taiwan's most revered deity goes on parade

  • By Ian Bartholomew / STAFF REPORTER
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  Taiwan is no stranger to big religious festivals. One of the largest, and the one most attuned to the 21st century, is the pilgrimage of Tachia (Da Jia) Matsu (大甲媽祖). This eight-day pilgrimage, which starts at 11:10pm on Saturday, will see the Matsu statue of the Jenn Lann Temple (鎮瀾宮) in Tachia carried for more than 300km from its home to the Tienfeng Temple (奉天宮) in Hsinkang (新港), Chiayi County and back again, stopping off at major temples along the way. The statue will be accompanied by thousands of pilgrims, some participating for part of the journey and others following the procession for the whole eight days, many on foot, as an act of devotion.

  Matsu devotees across the country are able to submit their prayers via mobile phone, follow the procession with GPS navigation, download auspicious talismans from major network providers, or simply purchase customized BenQ phones engraved with the temple's mark and preloaded with prayer and chant ring tones as well as Matsu screen savers and other devotional images.

  For devotees traveling light, courier services will be available along the route for pilgrims to replenish supplies and send back dirty laundry. Merchandising is conducted on a scale and in a manner that apes Hollywood tie-ins with fast food companies, and modern businesses have been actively engaged. The age-old religious festival now effectively draws in a wider public.

  

  Devotees bend down to let Matsu's palanquin pass over them for good luck.

  PHOTO: CHEN CHIEN-CHIH, TAIPEI TIMES

  Medieval religion meets 21st-century high-tech head-on when Matsu goes on parade. Jenn Lann Temple has been remarkable in orchestrating its engagement with the modern world while giving up virtually nothing of the religious intensity and violent passion of its creed. This ethos led to the creation of The Youth Organization of Da Jia Jenn Lann Temple (大甲鎮瀾宮e世代青年會), an organization that seeks to extend the religious experience from its rural base by incorporating young and upwardly mobile believers. (See interview.)

  This is the first year that the temple has worked together with a travel agency to provide one- and two-day "pilgrimage experiences" for those not able or unwilling to throw themselves fully into the pilgrimage. "A lot of people simply don't have the time," said Su Ming-yu (蘇銘鈺) of Hua Yu Travel Agency (華郁旅行社台), which has cooperated with temple authorities in organizing past pilgrimages of the deity to Meizhou (湄洲) in China, where the Matsu cult is said to have originated. "We have had huge interest in the one- and two-day tours," Su said. The agency has tour buses departing from Taipei, Taichung and Kaohsiung throughout the pilgrimage. Tours will combine visits to local scenic spots and historic sights along with participation in the pilgrimage's highlights. For those whom devotion or interest stops short of sleeping rough and walking for hours in the rain, this new "pilgrimage experience" might have much to offer. "We saw a need, and as we had experience working with the temple, we moved to fill it," Su said.

  For all its marketing hype and sophisticated organization, physical tussles between village gangs over who has the honor to carry the deity, tranced-out Eight Generals performers beating themselves bloody with spiked clubs in an ecstasy of religious fervor, and exhausted pilgrims passed out on the cold stone of temple courtyards, give the event a visceral quality that is very much at odds with Taiwan's image as a technology island. It's this contrast that gives the Tachia Matsu pilgrimage such enormous appeal.

  

  Devotees try to touch the statue of Matsu during the pilgrimage of Tachia Matsu in Taichung County.

  PHOTO: TSAI CHIH-MING, TAIPEI TIMES

  Interview with Huang Chih-chung (黃智琮), head of the The Youth Organization of Da Jia Jenn Lann Temple:

  The Youth Organization of Da Jia Jenn Lann Temple was formed in 2003 and in the last two years has seen a significant growth in membership, establishing a significant online presence that connects young religious adherents across the island.

  TT: How does The Youth Organization of Da Jia Jenn Lann Temple differ from the many other groups within the temple community?

  

  Small cameras are installed on Matsu's palanquin along with a satellite tracking system.

  PHOTO: TSAI CHIH-MING, TAIPEI TIMES

  HCC: The main difference is that most of us live away from Tachia, either as students or professionals. We've established an Internet presence so that even though we are not living in the community and can't hang out at the temple, we have access to information about what is going on. More and more people are interested, and it lets them, when a big event like the pilgrimage is being prepared, take an active role in helping out. Even during the pilgrimage our presence is not large, because people have jobs or classes to go to, but those who do manage to get down and take part, even if it's just for a couple of days, can share the experience with others around the island. ... Unlike smaller temples, Jenn Lann Temple has so many activities, and there is a lot to keep informed about.

  TT: How have the temple authorities responded to the creation of a group like The Youth Organization of Da Jia Jenn Lann Temple?

  HCC: Some of the older people are not really sure what we are about, because we don't have a clearly defined role like the guys who perform during the procession or the "aunties" who make sure there is tea for everyone. But the temple authorities are eager to embrace younger people so that the traditions can be passed on to a new generation. We have also proposed some activities aimed at young people and on the whole the temple has been really supportive. We have organized summer camps for primary school kids ... . These are for fun, but there are also classes about what Matsu represents.

  

  Paper money placed on the bench Matsu's palanquin rests on when she arrives at a temple is considered blessed.

  PHOTO: TSAI WEN-CHENG, TAIPEI TIMES

  TT: What is the appeal of such an organization to modern young people?

  HCC: For much of the time it is simply a chance to get together and chat, but the temple activities themselves can be very exciting. We're not purely religious, like the guys who parade dressed up as deities or dance in the eight generals formations but we don't have anything against such things either. We actually really enjoy these things, and being in this organization means that we have friends we can discuss these events with ... . Really it's a common interest. We share the enjoyment, but we also have tasks to perform, and it is a great honor to be able to participate. It is also a chance to pass down the heritage to people who probably couldn't be involved in temple affairs because they are away from the local community studying or working.

  TT: What has accounted for the growth of this group?

  

  A painting at an exhibition on Matsu religious culture at Taichung County Seaport Art Center.

  PHOTO: WANG YI CHE, TAIPEI TIMES

  HCC: Although the group started in 2003, we didn't actually participate in the pilgrimage as a group until 2006. We had been generating interest in schools and colleges along the pilgrimage route. We had many school children join us in a three-day two-night participation in the pilgrimage, which was followed up by a summer camp. We had a great response from this, and when the temple saw this, they gave us more support. In this way, the Jenn Lann Temple is very open to new developments.

  Information:

  Departure from Jenn Lann Temple, Tachia, Taichung County 11:10pm on Saturday

  Day One (4/6): Overnight at Nanyao Temple, Changhua City (彰化市南瑤宮)

  Day Two (4/7): Overnight at Fuhsing Temple, Hsiluo Township (西螺鎮福興宮)

  Day Three (4/8): Overnight at Fengtien Temple, Hsinkang Township (新港鄉奉天宮).

  Day Four (4/9): Overnight at Fengtien Temple, Hsinkang Township (新港鄉奉天宮, main blessing ceremony at 8am)

  Day Five (4/10): Overnight at Fuhsing Temple, Hsiluo Township (西螺鎮福興宮)

  Day Six (4/11): Overnight at Chengan Temple, Peitou Townshio (北斗鎮奠安宮)

  Day Seven (4/12): Overnight at Tienhou Temple, Changhua City (彰化市天后宮)

  Day Eight (4/13): Return to Jenn Lann Temple, Tachia Township (大甲鎮鎮瀾宮)

  An interactive route map of the pilgrimage can be found at blog.xuite.net/dajiamazu/2008/16131966, with links to restaurants and hostels along the route. During the pilgrimage, it will feature links to photos and video of each day's activity.

  Temples provide rudimentary accommodation for pilgrims and vegetarian food is provided free by temples along the route. More information can be found at the Jenn Lann Temple Web site at www.dajiamazu.org.tw.

  Extensive information about the history and ceremonies of the pilgrimage can be found at the Taichung County Government Web site at mazu.taichung.gov.tw (English and Chinese).
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