Despite the falling mercury, the flowers are still blooming at the former residence of Generalissimo Chiang Kai-shek (蔣介石) in Taipei's Shilin district. The special exhibition runs now through next Thursday.
Long shrouded in mystery, the estate nestled on the slopes of Fushan were off-limits to the public even after the deaths of Chiang in 1975 and his son and political heir Chiang Ching-kuo (
Though the flowers and trees that shade the estate were planted by the Japanese, Chiang's legacy consists of several structures within the expansive gardens, the most significant of which is Victory Chapel, a modest red brick church.
The church shows the influence of another figure who strolled these gardens, Soong Mei-ling (
Chiang was baptized in 1929, two years after his wedding. Nearly a decade later, while Chiang was fighting the Japanese near Nanjing in 1937, he swore that if China ever defeated the invading army, he would build a chapel to commemorate the victory. Today, Victory Chapel is padlocked and mostly unused.
Chiang had another structure built that commemorates his mother, his home in China's Zhejiang Province and his roots as a Buddhist. And it's a good deal more welcoming than Victory Chapel. Buddha's Heart Pavilion sits atop Fushan, an area Chiang likened to the hills of his home province, with forested walking trails that lead to the peak, and a view of Shilin from the second floor of the pagoda.
But the main structure on the estate, the official
residence of Chiang and his wife, remains shrouded in mystery, locked behind a fence. The front entrance and west side of the two-story mansion are mostly visible from the gardens and visitors line up next to the fence to have their picture taken flashing "V" signs, then stroll away to enjoy the dictator's old stomping grounds for themselves.
Earlier this week, one visitor from Beijing surnamed Mao was noticeably tickled at having his photo taken next to the late Generalissimo's house."I can't wait to show this photo to my friends in China." he said laughing. "They'll wonder how ever I got so close to Chiang's house!"
Should he return in a couple years, he will be able to get even closer. The Taipei City Government announced in June this year that the official residence will be opened to the public some time in 2006. The government is working with remaining members of the Chiang family to sort out which articles in the house belong to the family and which belong to the nation.
For their part, the family members have expressed their hope that the estate can be turned into a museum or a national level research facility for the study of topics related to World War II.
Chiang-Fang Chih-yi (
Present estimates to repair the main structure and the reception hall are around NT$80 million (US$2.38 million).
Until the day the fence opens, the public can enjoy the gardens. And the ongoing flower exhibition marks as good a time as any. Besides the displays in the Central Garden and Chinese Garden, be sure to check out the perennials on display in the Rose Garden. A display of stunning bonsai pieces can be found near the entrance as well, where vendors have set up shop to flog everything from seeds to teas and gardening tools.
Out and about:
What: The gardens of the former residence of Chiang Kai-shek
Where: 1, Zhongshan N Rd, Sec 5, Ln 460 in Taipei City's Shilin District (
When:The gardens are open from 8am to 5pm, Monday through Friday and until 7pm, Saturday and Sunday. Take the MRT to Shilin Station. Exit the south end of the station and walk east 10 minutes on Fulin Rd. Entrance to the gardens is free. Tour guides are available on weekends.
Call:(02) 2881 2512.
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