With little more than a moment's notice, world-class surfers, and those who wished they were, flocked like pilgrims on Friday to a wind-whipped beach north of Half Moon Bay, California, to pay homage at North America's ultimate surfing shrine, the big-wave mecca known as Maverick's.
They dropped whatever plans they had, because when perfect waves beckon, there is no choice but to heed the call. It had been four years since the surf was good enough to bother holding the Maverick's Surfing Contest, and when word went out last Thursday that the thunderous surf was back, few had any doubts where they'd be come the next morning.
"It's the holy of holies of the Northern Hemisphere," said Veronica Smith, a 49-year-old paramedic who came down from Bolinas, California. "It's an honor to be here. The ocean is on its own schedule, so when the ocean goes off, you make time for it."
The Maverick's Surfing Contest is unique in that regard, requiring contestants and spectators to show up on 24 hours notice whenever the waves and weather are optimal. Everyone knows it's coming, but no one knows when. The competitors, including legendary surfer Brock Little and two-time Maverick's winner Darryl "Flea" Virostko of Santa Cruz, California, knew only that the contest could be held anytime between Jan. 1 and March 31.
Despite the short notice, just four of the 24 invited surfers couldn't make it. Their spots were quickly filled by an eager roster of surfers, each of whom jumped at the chance to compete on the mammoth waves that make Maverick's the spot everyone wants to surf -- or wishes they could.
"People have been discovering big wave beaches up and down the coast, but this is still the best," said Greg Long, a 20-year-old professional surfer from San Clemente, California. "I've been watching this since well before I was surfing, and I'm still in awe."
The surf, however, offered only glimpses of the mythical power of the sea near Pillar Point Harbor. The waves, which have been known to top 15m, began the day at half that but quickly relaxed to a relatively paltry 4m to 6m. The sets -- as waves are known to surfers -- were largely unruly and sloppy, forcing the riders to work doubly hard to strut their stuff.
Virostko, who won in 1999 and 2000, once again took first place and the US$5,000 prize. Evan Slater of Carlsbad, California, and Peter Mel of Santa Cruz took second and third place, respectively.
The spirited showing by the surfers and enthusiastic fans marked the rousing return of a contest that lay dormant for three years, hobbled by bad weather and the loss of sponsorship by surfwear maker Quiksilver. Contest director Jeff Clark, who is credited with discovering Maverick's in 1975, forged ahead this year with two minor sponsors in hopes of re-establishing the tournament.
"I wanted to set the precedent that this can happen every year," said Clark. "For the athletes, the surfers, this is a personal investment to show and throw it down for the contest. We're saying this is the showcase. There isn't anything else like it for Northern California or even the mainland."
Surfers approach Maverick's as they would a great white shark -- with awe, respect and, if they're smart, a little fear. And for good reason -- Mark Foo, a big-wave surfing icon, drowned in 1994 after crashing during a run at Maverick's.
The waves draw their power from the coastline's geography. The swells build in a deep canyon off the coastline and break just under a kilometer away from Pillar Point over a shallow ocean reef, which launches the waves in the air and sends them crashing toward shore. It is an elemental place where the force of nature rewards the skilled and punishes the foolhardy.
"People have been broken here -- their legs, boards and spirits," said competitor Ken Collins, 36, of Santa Cruz. "It's a really potent wave, really scary."
The fans, some of whom drove hours to watch some of the world's best surfers, appreciated the show. They fanned out along the beach under sunny skies, huddled in winter jackets. Many watched the action from atop nearby cliffs like seagulls spying their next meal. All were in awe of the graceful and sometimes violent dance between wave and rider.
"I love seeing the big waves and the powerful ocean, and when you combine that with people willing to risk their lives, it's a big draw," said Anne Corbett, 24, of Millbrae.
For some, the contest underscored their limitations. Maverick's can make those who think they're good realize how much they have to learn.
Kevin Weng, 33, a marine biology doctoral candidate who drove up from Pacific Grove, California, grew up surfing in Hawaii and knows a thing or two about riding a wave. But he was in no hurry to join the pros in the surf at Maverick's.
"Hell, no," said Weng. "I like to push it, but nothing like this. You need to be 100 times better than me to be out there."
For Clark, the contest director, the event was the triumphant return of a wonderful tradition, one he hopes will continue for years.
"It was awesome," he said. "Everyone was stoked. The waves could have been better, but we worked with it, and we had a great time."
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