There's definitely no lack of ramen noodle shops in Taiwan. Chain restaurants, each specializing in one of the various Japanese cooking styles, abound. Most put decor and atmosphere before substance, and few can claim that their noodles are authentically Japanese.
Ichiban Tien, however, prides itself on its undiluted Nogaya-style ramen, which is a cross between the miso flavor of Osaka to its west and the soy sauce flavor of Tokyo to its east. To adhere to the Nogaya style of cooking, the restaurant makes its soup in two large traditional hand-made iron vessels. Diners can see the waist-high vessels in the open-plan kitchen from their tables. Facing diners on the other side is a small, well-kept NT$60 million garden, next to which is the smoking area built on a rustic wooden floor.
PHOTO: VICO LEE, TAIPEI TIMES
Friendly and attentive even during the busiest of dinner hours, Ichiban Tien's staff are as impressive as the tasty noodles they serve.
Behind the restaurant's immaculate cleanliness and the attentiveness of the staff are six-months of rigorous training, a promotion system based on performance and direct supervision (cameras on kitchen ceilings transmit the goings-on to the company's headquarters in Japan's Miyagi Prefecture).
All this is meant to maintain the reputation of Ichiban Tien's 90 branches around Japan. New branches in Singapore and Korea are soon to open. Although there is presently only one Ichiban Tien in Taiwan, its success since opening in July has made Onishi Takatoshi, the chain restaurant's president, resolve to open 20 more branches in Taiwan in the next two years.
In the belief that customers should and will gradually get accustomed to foreign flavors, Ichiban Tien has made no adjustments to the recipes for traditional noodles, which are famous for their saltiness. Although some customers have found the noodles too salty, an increasing number have grown to appreciate the authentic Japanese flavor. One reason is the accompanying chilled bittersweet o-cha, tea, which goes well with the salty hot noodles.
Partly inspired by the extreme spiciness of Sichuan noodles, dandan noodles (NT$160 for the super spicy version; NT$150 for the regular version) are popular with those who like it hot. Fried rice with noodles (NT$130) is an interesting item that cleverly uses noodles to absorb the excess sauce from fried rice, improving the taste of both the rice and the noodles.
Diners have a wide range of dessert choices. The most popular among them is mixed sweets on ice (NT$160). The fragrant mo-cha tea nicely combines with pleasantly sweet red beans. Nuts and sticky rice balls add to the rich taste.
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