Sat, Nov 23, 2002 page17

• In South Korea, echoes of the past

  Despite a recent makeover for the World Cup and a decade of enormous change, old tensions run deep in one of Asia's most dynamic countries

  • By Jules Quartly / STAFF REPORTER
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  There are two South Koreas. One is characterized by glossy Seoul and its high-tech plans for the future, the other may be found beneath the canopy of infrastructure which is going up around the country and is still building on the rubble of the past.

  Seoul was largely destroyed by the so-called "Forgotten" or Korean War which raged from 1950 to 1953, when it changed hands between the southern and northern forces four times. As a result, most of what you see now is just one generation old.

  

  Young women support South Korea against China in the basketball finals won by South Korea in October at the Asian Games in Busan.

  PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY, TAIPEI TIMES

  The only city in South Korea that was not taken by North Korea was Busan, in the south of the country, that is now aiming to be a hub of e-commerce for Asia but has a more traditional flavor. In Busan and elsewhere, there are little pagodas in the parks and along sidewalks that are for women to smoke under, since older residents disapprove of women smoking, especially in public.

  

  A man walks along the seashore, framed by an art exhibit from the Busan Biennale, at Haeundae Beach in Busan.

  PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY, TAIPEI TIMES

  In Seoul, where nearly 40 percent of South Koreans now live, such issues seldom intrude and women smoke and drink freely. The new image of South Korea -- projected by the World Cup and Asian Games -- is of gleaming stadiums, everything up to date, prosperous, a player.

  South Korea's economy has grown remarkably. Forty years ago the country was a wreck after occupation and civil war, but is now comparable with the lesser economies of Europe in terms of individual prosperity (GDP per head is US$10,550). It builds boats, deals in steel and is proud of being the most Internet-literate country in the world.

  

  Old men play Chinese chess on the steps leading to the Busan Tower.

  PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY, TAIPEI TIMES

  At the World Cup and Asian Games there were many individuals and groups that were keen to spread the word about South Korea. They ranged from relentlessly optimistic youths in "We the Red" T-shirts, to more radical and older people who resented the presence of US soldiers, still hated Japan after its brutal occupation of 1910 to 1945, and feared China.

  Others, such as Lee Woo-jung, the assistant development team manager of the Bright Smile Movement, said South Koreans had not, by custom, smiled for 500 years and their group had a teacher who was a "Master of 1,000 expressions" and was helping the country learn to smile.

  "In the Chosun Dynasty (from 1392) it was not fashionable to smile as this could have meant that you were not serious about something, or it could have meant that you were laughing at a person in authority," Lee said, "Korea has not smiled since then. Our smiling faces disappeared and now we have to learn to do it all over again."

  Having fun, however, does not seem to be a problem. Wherever you are in South Korea people stay up late, but Seoul rarely sleeps.

  In the entertainment areas with their flashy bars and Internet cafes, a multitude of restaurants and amusement arcades compete for the attention of the younger crowds. Businessmen trawl the streets in search of hof or beer bars and often enough find a karaoke bar in which to throw around their money.

  Koreans, South Koreans are fond of reminding you, work harder than anyone else and they are proud of their achievements.

  Young housewives populate the sleek and hyper-air conditioned shopping malls during the day. Computer markets and warehouses are open 24-7 and attract a mixed crowd. Youths rule in the cybercafes and arcades. K-pop, K-TV, soaps and a thriving film business has given South Korea a cachet of cool in Asia.

  But South Korean-born American businessman Moon Bae-kyoung -- who has returned from the US to his roots in order to do consultancy work for local government -- has another take on the South Korean success story.

  "It [life in South Korea] seems all very shiny and people may look good, but it's all show. A lot of people are not very well off. They have small and similar apartments and often work for small wages. You don't have to go far to find bad housing and people scraping a living on the streets," Moon said.

  Away from the administrative centers, business zones and shopping parks connected by extensive subway systems are the traditional markets, with their betting parlors, cheap karaoke rooms and love hotels.

  This is where you will find good and cheap food served on stalls in the middle of pedestrian precincts. Dishes include giant mussels simply stewed in their own juices, sashimi, and traditional noodle or rice dishes. These are always served with kimchi.

  It is also where you will find yogwan or "love hotels," which are often frantically well appointed -- Internet, water cooler, HD TV, jacuzzis, recessed lighting, condom machines and porn movies. Kitsch rules but hygiene prevails. While love hotels often cater for "lunchtime encounters" or couples otherwise engaged, they also provide cheap and clean accommodation at reasonable prices.

  Jagalchi Market in Busan represents the old South Korea, where wizened souls snatch and pocket the octopi that have spilled from crates being lifted onto the docks from the corroded fishing boats below.

  On one such occasion one of the overseers from the boats makes as if to strike one of the scavenging old ladies, but she scuttles off and gets just a snarl from the man.

  Further down, a small but fierce old lady rushes at a Westerner with her broom and sweeps him out of the cafe, yelling and scolding as she advances.

  He had only just been welcomed into the shop by what turned out to be the old woman's nephew. "Come in, come in, drink, yes?" he had shouted and beckoned for the Westerner to take a seat. Though preferring to record the street scene rather than engage in conversation along the lines of, "Where do you come from? Do you like South Korea?" the Westerner went in anyway.

  He was asked where he came from and he replied England, at which point the old lady rushed at the bemused and then retreating man. The nephew caught up with the Westerner and explained why his aunt did not like foreigners.

  "Russia, China and the United Nations were behind the split up of our country. In fact the Americans were behind the United Nations and the English and allies were behind the Americans. And the Japanese, well. ... She hates all foreigners because she thinks they're all the same," he said.

  Though South Korea has had an image makeover in the last 20 years, the past is everywhere if you wish to find it, just don't forget the war.
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