Opened in May, Siggi's food and decor have already made it the talk of the town. The elegant interior is sure to appeal to those wanting to get away from the noise and crowds that characterize most of the eateries in its neighborhood, but ultimately it is the cooking of chef Chen Yuan-mou (陳遠謀) that brings in the customers.
Chen has recently returned from a six-year stint practicing Western cooking overseas and is ready to offer diners authentic continental food. Before heading for catering school in Australia, Chen had already cooked for 10 years, mostly in Chinese cuisine. This part of his training can be seen in his business lunch menu, which presents four set lunches for around NT$230. The menu of set lunches changes every week.
Returning from Australia, Chen chose to open his own restaurant rather than hop into a hotel restaurant position, because he wants to focus on quality control.
PHOTO: CHANG JU-PING, TAIPEI TIMES
Although there are only five entrees on his dinner menu, they are all labor-intensive, handcrafted products made from the freshest ingredients, all imported from Europe. "Only the best quality ingredients get into my kitchen," Chen said. For example, he demands eye fillet rather than eye rib steak, and his mushroom sauce is a glaze, much more concentrated than the usual mushroom sauce. The result is solid and rich, but also clean, elegant and never over-seasoned or oily.
Even though Chen knows both Western and Chinese cuisines, he said he respects tradition and does not like to mix recipes. Signature dishes such as the char-grilled eye fillet, served with potato, broccoli, carrot and mushroom truffle glaze are a labor of love.
In order to prevent steaks bleeding onto the plate, especially when guests have it rare, the steaks are served 15 minutes after cooking to allow time for any bleeding to stop.
Siggi's afternoon tea is highly recommended. For NT$250 diners get all-you-can-eat ice cream and cakes, including Chen's specialty of French macaroons and German poached pears.
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