France is famous for its wines, not its marketing gimmicks. But the wine makers of Beaujolais, a bucolic region south of Burgundy, are doing a terrific job when it comes to promoting themselves and ergo their wines.
Maintaining a tradition, the Beaujolais Nouveau (new) was launched yesterday evening all over town as it was simultaneously released around the world.
PHOTO: COURTESY GRAND FORMOSA REGENT TAIPEI
The beauty of this event is that year after year France and everyone abroad who likes the country's food, wine or lifestyle has another reason to celebrate. "Sounds a bit like having a second Bastille Day in the year," Dominique Levy, a Frenchman and managing director of Vallois International, a company importing wine to Taiwan since 1990, said.
"If your closest neighbor is Burgundy, you have to be creative if you want to compete with them. Actually Beaujolais has nothing to be identified with the region [Burgundy] producing some of the best red wines in the world. La Tache, Echezeaux, Vosne Romanee are based on pinot noir grapes and need at least five to 12 years to reach their peak, while classic crus of the Beaujolais, like Brouilly, Chiroubles or Saint Amour, made of gamay grapes, are already on the market after 2 years," says Levy. An additional perk is that Beaujolais wines are less expensive than Burgundy wines.
When a few wine makers had the idea to release their Beaujolais wines right after fermentation they didn't realize the impact this would have on their region. The wines were such a success at home they then decided to go global.
"What matters in this type of operation is consistency and speed. So year after year the wine makers and "negociants" (wine traders) work closely together to ensure that the entire bulk is dispatched on time. Considering the financial impact of the operation, this year an additional runway was especially built at the airport of Lyon Sattelas to meet the growing overseas demand," says Levy.
Young hence pleasant
Previously, only a few producers like Georges Duboeuf and Mommessin aimed to sell their wines in Taiwan. But having recognized the desire for a wider choice among the country's consumers, the other major players like Pierre Ferraud, Louis Jadot, Joseph Drouhin, and Henry Fessy are now also present
It is fun to compare brands because the origin of the Beaujolais is the same but there are often significant differences between them. There is no secret chemistry; it is simply a matter of blending. Wine being a natural product, the soil, location, humidity and exposure affect the plant's growth and, indirectly, the grapes.
Beaujolais wines are often called "simple" or "easy" but this is what makes them pleasant and attractive. The gamay grapes used in the wines have a distinctive taste unique among red wine. They age fast and should not be kept for more than 5 years. Because they reach maturity earlier, they are put on the market sooner than Burgundy and Bordeaux wines, making them more affordable.
The "cuvee" (vintage) 2000 is very pleasant. The sugar content seems to be higher than usual, but the Beaujolais Nouveau is not a sweet but a fruity wine. We tried one which had a strong after taste reminiscent of raspberries. Another had a light strawberry taste enhanced by a subdued cherry flavor.
Unlike other red wines which are served at room temperature, the Beaujolais Nouveau must be served "fresh," not chilled. A few hours in the refrigerator suffice to bring the bottle to the optimum temperature.
Those who have never tasted it before will be seduced by the Beaujolais Nouveau's lightness. Most outlets in town are offering it by the glass or the bottle. Its affordable price allows it also to be available in supermarkets. Traditionally it is consumed until Christmas and assuming the temperature finally drops in January, you can make some gluhwein (warm wine) with the leftovers.
The Nouveau goes well with cold cuts, salads, poultry, meat dishes and cheese. Avoid seafood, especially dishes prepared with a creamy sauce.
Beaujolais wines are divided into three categories. The first is called plainly Beaujolais, without mention of a specific origin. The second is called Beaujolais Villages. In these wines, the name of the village from which the wine hails is often added to the name, such as Jullie, Emeringes, Leynes, Bellevue. The third kind of Beaujolais wines are known primarily by the name of the village, such as Saint-Amour, Julienas and Chenas. The best of this group include Chiroubles, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Morgon, Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly.
Not a fad
Beaujolais is based on a simple but effective concept: release the wines for consumption soon after fermentation. As can be expected, vinters from other countries have tried to emulate what the French are doing rather well.
Duplication is possible assuming the same "cepage" (vine plant) is used. But not everyone grows gamay grape and nature cannot yield the same results by using fundamentally different wine plants. This is why the Nouveau is so appealing and also explains why its makers are looking ahead with a smile.
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