Jiu Jiu Steakhouse (久久牛排)
53 Joucheng East Rd. (舊城東路53號); Tel: (03)935-5697. Average meal: NT$400 per person. Noon to 3pm; 5:30pm to 10pm. English menu. Credit cards not accepted.
There are two kinds of steakhouses in Taiwan: those that serve accurate if expensive facsimiles of North American steak meals, and draw crowds of well-heeled expatriates -- and those whose offerings are tailored to local tastes.
Jiu Jiu undoubtedly falls into the second category -- the steaks are served on a bed of noodles with an egg, just like in any night market. But Jiu Jiu's meals come far closer to satisfying Western palates than those of the most locally owned steakhouses.
The meat -- be it beef, chicken or pork -- is good quality and the service is efficient. Individual steaks begin at NT$150, but the set meals -- which include a cocktail, seafood soup, shellfish, salad, coffee, dessert and fruit -- are a much better value. (The "cocktail" is disappointingly insipid, but that's a minor criticism).
Australian sirloin is perhaps the best option for hungry carnivores. For those who have no qualms about mixing white meat and seafood, there are several good combinations, including Iceland cod and chicken and Hungarian prawns and pork. While smaller than the huge slabs of meat served in Taipei's expatriate-oriented steak joints, the portions will satisfy all but the stoutest trenchermen. It's little wonder that this place is extremely popular, and that on weekends you may well have to wait for a table.
Yuanshan Fish Ball Noodles Vendor (員山魚丸米粉小吃)
On Kangle Street., near the intersection with Joucheng East Road (康樂街靠近舊城東路). No telephone number. Average meal: NT$50 per person. 11am to 8:30pm (approximately). No English menu. Credit cards not accepted.
Every city and county in Taiwan has its own special cuisine. Ilan County is no exception, its most famous comestible being Yuanshan fish balls, named after a small town about 5km to the west of Ilan.
The fish balls themselves vary in both taste and size from one establishment to the next. Some are slightly spicy, others are a little salty or have a strong fishy aftertaste. They are pressed by hand, often on the premises, and usually served with mi-fen (noodles made from rice, rather than wheat).
The middle-aged couple surnamed Wang who run the unnamed stall on Ilan's Kangle St add chunks of deep-fried tofu and some token vegetables to each bowl. They offer a couple of different soups and other mi-fen variations, but there's no mistaking that the Yuanshan fish ball noodle dish is both their specialty and the most popular item on the menu.
A small portion (NT$35) makes for a delicious snack, while a large helping (NT$50) is a meal in itself. If this stall is closed, consider taking a bus from Kuangfu Road to Yuanshan, where eateries offering this dish abound.
La Rive Gauche (左岸餐廳)
46 Hsinhsing Rd. (新興路46號). Tel: (03) 931-5877. Average meal: NT$500 per person. Open 24 hours. English menu. Credit cards not accepted.
Offering Chinese and Western-style cooking, and doing a good job of both, La Rive Gauche exudes much more sophistication than one might expect to find in such a small city.
The interior is softly lit and comfortably appointed. The railroad passes behind the building, but the overall effect is soothing despite the occasional noise.
Diners, who are attended to in an efficient but relaxed manner (the staff wear T-shirts and jeans), are advised to spend several minutes perusing the menu before ordering. It's that extensive.
Notable among the soups on offer are white gourd and clam, and stewed pig's intestine with salted vegetables, while salads include green bamboo salad and devilfish salad. In fact, devilfish is one of the favorite ingredients of La Rive Gauche's chefs -- the menu lists blanched, crispy and other variations.
Hakka-style big intestine may not appeal to many Westerners, but the steaks, chicken dishes and seafood options (oysters, salmon, and especially noteworthy, the prawn milk hot pot) should satisfy the fussiest foreign visitor.
Set meals cost between NT$300 and NT$700. Unless your group numbers four or more, this is the most sensible way to order, though a la carte dishes do come in both large and small sizes.
The list of desserts is impressive: there is a wide choice of waffles, sundaes and ice creams. Twenty-six kinds of coffee are available, and almost as many teas.
This is a 24-hour restaurant where, were it not for the need to sleep, one could imagine very happily spending at least 24 hours.
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