One of the major misconceptions about Canada is the climate. The reality is that British Columbia is the region of Canada which enjoys the mildest temperature all year round. It is also the closest Canadian province to Taiwan. So, it is no surprise that Vancouver is the ideal landing spot for tourists and immigrants alike.
If you can't make it there anytime soon, BC and Canada are coming to you until Sunday at the Grand Formosa Regent in downtown Taipei. As usual, the affair focuses mostly on food, but musical entertainment and art are broadening the event.
The meals are being served in the Brasserie (buffet), the Court (a la carte menu), the Steak House and the Teppenyaki (set lunch and set dinner) under the expert supervision of Paul Marshall, guest chef from the Fairmont Hotel in Vancouver. As for the kitchen brigade of the Grand Formosa Regent, their versatility must be acknowledged. After all, they were cooking Irish specialties no later than two weeks ago and in mid November, classical French dishes will enhance the launching of the Beaujolais Nouveau. One could argue that the basics of cooking are almost the same, the difficulty being to reproduce in a different setting the original flavors of a specific dish or region.
PHOTO: COURTESY OF GRAND FORMOSA REGENT HOTEL
GIFTED IN MANY WAYS
"We are very lucky in BC," says Marshall. whose objectivity cannot be denied. British, trained in London, he worked in Holland and Switzerland before landing in Canada.
"Working with first class raw materials is what matters the most, and we are getting everything fresh," says Marshall. "There is this guy from Okanagen who makes an eight-hour drive to supply the Fairmont Hotel with the finest vegetables. Buying from him is like going shopping for Xmas". The windfall is not limited to the greens: seafood from salty and fresh waters is plentiful. And for meat lovers, Marshall suggests visitors to Vancouver check out a new place called Morten's, located downtown, which offers 16 ounce steaks.
As for the taste and presentation, there has been in the past 20 years an evolution or, perhaps, a revolution in the art. "Long ago, European chefs were training our people. Everyone was sort of working on their own. The Italians, on one side, the Germans and the Swiss on the other and more south the Portuguese," says Marshall. "Now that everyone has realized that diversity is a must, they are borrowing a bit from each other. In BC it is even better because like in California we have this strong influence from the East".
MULTICULTURAL
Cooking made in Canada has become as cosmopolitan as its inhabitants. The proof is in some of the dishes concocted by Marshall.
As appetizer, try the pan-seared Atlantic Digby Scallops. The scallops are slightly pan-fried and served with a beurre blanc flavored with caramelized lemon peels. A clear mushroom soup made the old fashion way through clarification, a complex operation compared to the way Chinese chefs are producing soups, is also served, garnished with cured snow crab. The grilled Ahi tuna for the main course is a light, grilled rare fish, sitting on a risotto of pearl barley underneath a portabello mushroom cap, surrounded by a red bell pepper sauce. Don't miss the dessert, and go for the warm chocolate cake with Grand Marnier center. Little flour is used in order to leave the chocolate flavors intact.
SIMPLE AND NATURAL
After decades of classicism, chefs can express themselves and have their own views and minds. "My style of cooking is simple and original. The important thing is to keep the flavors of all ingredients, which have to be at their best. Don't overwork them: there should not be more than three different components per plate. Keep the vegetables as natural as you can. People want to see what they are eating, so puree or mashed preparations should be avoided"
The dishes presented by Marshall are in line with his cooking philosophy. Good balance of colors, and a tasteful use of garnish.
Among Marshall's favorite is the Rare Ahi tuna tower made out of chopped fresh tuna, a layer of avocado and a wasabe beet cream sauce. The dish is definitely on the eastern side, based on a French classic in which the beef has been replaced by the tuna.
Canadian meat does not need further introduction. The rib eye is tender and juicy. You may also try the roasted rack of lamb or the beef tenderloin with a glass of 1995 Hawthorne Mountain Gamay Noir. The 1996 Lang Vineyard Riesling goes very well with seafood or as an aperitif. Both wines are from the Okanagen region.
WHAT ELSE
The paintings of Ray Simser are exhibited in the Brasserie, the Court, the Steak House and the Teppenyaki. Entertainment is provided by "Alma Libre" (free soul) a trio composed of musicians from Armenia, the UK and Quebec. Their repertoire has a Latino touch but their spirit is 100 percent Canadian.
Across the ocean, BC and Canada have much more on offer. Breath-taking scenery, fresh air, space and a multi cultural environment.
For your information: The Grand Formosa Regent is at 41 Chungshan N. Rd, Sec. 2 (中山北路二段41號)
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