Li Yuqing would fit right in on Seventh Avenue, smack in the middle of New York's garment district. Li is not hunched over a sewing machine. A soft-spoken 27-year-old college graduate trained as a clothing designer, she sits instead in a roomful of computers at a factory here and studies sketches of windbreakers, ski jackets and coats sent from design studios in New York, Paris, London, Milan and Hamburg.
Then she strokes the keys of her computer and figures out exactly how that sketch can become reality: how wide, how long and what texture every scrap of fabric must be, even what kind of stitches will be needed.
Even as the Bush administration moves to impose new limits on Chinese garment exports to the US, textile industry executives here in Xiamen, a coastal city an hour's flight northeast of Hong Kong, say they are already looking a step ahead.
PHOTO: NY TIMES
They are trying to figure out how more of their workers can move beyond the simple cutting and sewing of garments into what is known as engineering and, someday, the initial sketching of new clothing.
US and Chinese government negotiators hope to conclude a deal in Beijing limiting China's soaring clothing exports to the US before a Wednesday night deadline next week. If they fail, the US could still impose further limits on Chinese exports. But a textile agreement would clear away one possible disagreement before US President George W. Bush and Chinese President Hu Jintao (胡錦濤) are scheduled to meet at the White House on Sept. 7.
In the push-and-pull of Beijing's relations with the rest of the world, such negotiations are not likely to put more than a modest dent in China's industrial expansion.
So for garment makers in the US and Europe, the next shake-up is likely to come not from millions of semiskilled seamstresses earning less than US$1 an hour, but from thousands of ambitious would-be designers like Li.
And even as they focus mostly on basic tasks, China's designers are starting to show an interest in innovation that may someday supplant the Chinese reputation for counterfeits and illegal copies.
Li's work is painstaking. It is not as creative as sketching a new jacket, something she has dreamed of doing since she was a little girl. But her task, variously known as the construction or engineering of a garment, is an important and potentially costly stage in the production of any item of clothing.
Producing as much as possible of each garment here helps Chinese companies move up the skills ladder. It also helps Western garment managers control costs.
"They realize that the more work they do, the less work the designers will have to do," said Bob Zane, a senior vice president at Liz Claiborne, "and work done at the factory is cheaper than work done at the design studio."
Young US graduates from design or fashion technology programs used to be able to find entry-level jobs in so-called sample rooms. Workers in such rooms assemble garments from sketches and send them to the designer to be checked and fitted on models before mass production begins.
But many Chinese companies now function as the sample rooms for US and European businesses. Smartex Far East Ltd, the company in Xiamern where Li works, receives sketches and technical specifications by e-mail and every day sends dozens of FedEx packages with completed samples to fashion houses in New York, Paris, Milan, and elsewhere.
"You could work for most designers on Seventh Avenue and never even see samples being made," said Timothy Gunn, chairman of the fashion design department at the Parsons School of Design in New York.
Taiwan has experienced its most significant improvement in the QS World University Rankings by Subject, data provided on Sunday by international higher education analyst Quacquarelli Symonds (QS) showed. Compared with last year’s edition of the rankings, which measure academic excellence and influence, Taiwanese universities made great improvements in the H Index metric, which evaluates research productivity and its impact, with a notable 30 percent increase overall, QS said. Taiwanese universities also made notable progress in the Citations per Paper metric, which measures the impact of research, achieving a 13 percent increase. Taiwanese universities gained 10 percent in Academic Reputation, but declined 18 percent
RETHINK? The defense ministry and Navy Command Headquarters could take over the indigenous submarine project and change its production timeline, a source said Admiral Huang Shu-kuang’s (黃曙光) resignation as head of the Indigenous Submarine Program and as a member of the National Security Council could affect the production of submarines, a source said yesterday. Huang in a statement last night said he had decided to resign due to national security concerns while expressing the hope that it would put a stop to political wrangling that only undermines the advancement of the nation’s defense capabilities. Taiwan People’s Party Legislator Vivian Huang (黃珊珊) yesterday said that the admiral, her older brother, felt it was time for him to step down and that he had completed what he
BULLY TACTICS: Beijing has continued its incursions into Taiwan’s airspace even as Xi Jinping talked about Taiwan being part of the Chinese family and nation China should stop its coercion of Taiwan and respect mainstream public opinion in Taiwan about sovereignty if its expression of goodwill is genuine, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MOFA) said yesterday. Ministry spokesman Jeff Liu (劉永健) made the comment in response to media queries about a meeting between former president Ma Ying-jeou (馬英九) and Chinese President Xi Jinping (習近平) the previous day. Ma voiced support for the so-called “1992 consensus,” while Xi said that although the two sides of the Taiwan Strait have “different systems,” this does not change the fact that they are “part of the same country,” and that “external
UNDER DISCUSSION: The combatant command would integrate fast attack boat and anti-ship missile groups to defend waters closest to the coastline, a source said The military could establish a new combatant command as early as 2026, which would be tasked with defending Taiwan’s territorial waters 24 nautical miles (44.4km) from the nation’s coastline, a source familiar with the matter said yesterday. The new command, which would fall under the Naval Command Headquarters, would be led by a vice admiral and integrate existing fast attack boat and anti-ship missile groups, along with the Naval Maritime Surveillance and Reconnaissance Command, said the source, who asked to remain anonymous. It could be launched by 2026, but details are being discussed and no final timetable has been announced, the source