Wed, May 17, 2017 - Page 5 News List

FEATURE: Fighting to save Pakistan’s Bronze Age metropolis


Visitors walk through the UNESCO World Heritage archeological site of Mohenjo Daro, about 425km north of Karachi, Pakistan, on Feb. 9.

Photo: AFP

The center of a powerful ancient civilization, Mohenjo Daro was one of the world’s earliest cities — a Bronze Age metropolis boasting flush toilets, and a water and waste system to rival many in modern Pakistan.

About 5,000 years on archeologists believe the ruins could unlock the secrets of the Indus Valley people, who flourished in about 3,000 BC in what is now India and Pakistan before mysteriously disappearing.

However, they warn, if nothing is done to protect the ruins — already neglected and worn by time — Mohenjo Daro will fade to dust and obscurity, never taking its rightful place in history.

“Everybody knows Egypt, nobody knows Mohenjo Daro, this has to be changed,” said Michael Jansen, a German researcher working at the sun-baked site on the banks of the Indus River in Pakistan’s southern Sindh Province.

Jansen is at the forefront of a new effort to promote the site internationally while finding ways to protect what is left.

In summer temperatures can soar above 46°C.

“There is enormous thermo-stress,” said Jansen, adding that salt from the underground water table is also damaging the ruins.

However, it is more than just the weather and time. Pakistan’s bloody fight against militancy has also raised the specter of destruction by a Muslim group, much like the Islamic State group destroyed the ruins in Palmyra, Syria.

Most horrifying is the wanton disregard for Mohenjo Daro — or “mound of the dead” — by ordinary citizens. In 2014, police stood atop the main stupa as hundreds of people swarmed the site to, ironically, commemorate Pakistan’s cultural heritage — complete with scaffolding, dancing, fireworks, heavy spotlights and lasers.

Sindh Minister of Culture Sardar Ali Shah has vowed never to let such a thing happen again.

“It’s like you are jumping on the bed of a 5,000-year-old ailing patient,” he said.

Yet today curious visitors still roam the remains with impunity, many leaving rubbish in the once-pristine streets and wells.

Jansen and his Friends of Mohenjo Daro society aim to promote the site internationally, with plans to recruit Pakistanis around the world for conferences, seminars and debates.

Kaleem Lashari, lead consultant to the Pakistani government over Mohenjo Daro, said they plan to digitally archive the Indus script — which has never been deciphered — in hopes that making it accessible will increase the site’s profile.

At the site itself, technical reviews are being held to examine the water logging issue and other ways to shore up the ruins, while exploring new, modern technology that allows researchers to ascertain what lies beneath the surface in the portions of the city not yet excavated, he said.

Perhaps the biggest challenge remains Pakistan’s international image, tarnished by extremism, corruption, poverty and insecurity, Lashari said.

“Foreigners are afraid to visit Pakistan and the site because of the chronic issue of law and order,” he said.

The issues he cites underscore unsettling differences between modern day Pakistan and the civilization found among the ruins.

At their peak during the Bronze Age, the Indus Valley people are believed to have numbered up to 5 million, with Mohenjo Daro their largest and most advanced settlement.

Clay and metallic seals, coins, standardized weighing stones, gold and bronze ornaments, toys and whistles — the bric-a-brac of ancient lives have revealed volumes about thriving Indus trade and commerce.

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