About 50 meters before the top is a large stone tablet with the character "Hu" -- tiger -- carved into it Placed there in 1867 by Taiwan Regional Commander Liu Ming-teng, it was intended as protection against fierce winds that rake the hilltops.
Crowded summit
On a Sunday afternoon, hundreds of people will pass over the flagstone terrace at the top of the pass, and the pavilion there will be chockablock with people craning for views up the coast. Despite chilly weather, the remote earth god shrine here does a brisk business, with pious visitors lining up before it, hands in prayer and clamped around sticks of incense. Just above the nearby pavilion, at the end of a short feeder trail, lies a quieter perch that's ideal for picnicking.
Although the main part of trail continues, dropping quickly into Tali, a lot of people just return via the valley. If you do choose to push onward, it's about a half-hour's walk to the temple of the Jade Emperor.
There are a few country roads that lead off the main trail as you head back, offering the promise of further exploration. You may see the odd farmer toiling away or a cow here or there, but for the most part these offshoots seem like lonely places that only the locals go to. The crowds thin by around 4 or 5pm making this a more pleasant time to slip into a quiet nook along the stream and enjoy the final few hours away from city life.
For your information:
Transportation By train: Stop at the Kungliao station near Fulung and walk for about 40 minutes to the Yuanwang-keng trailhead. From Tali station, walk about 10 minutes to the Jade Emperor Temple trailhead.
By car: Take the Sun Yat-sen freeway to the Keelung or Patu exit, then take Route 2 south along the coast. There's plenty of signage pointing the way to the trailhead. FYI: Although it's possible to drive all the way to the trailhead, many people park their cars near a bridge that's only a kilometer or so off the coastal highway. Also, taking a car out to the trail on the weekend only takes less than an hour, but the trip back may take up to two depending on traffic.
By bus: The Taipei to Lotung Chunghsing bus leaves approximately every 20 minutes. Get off in Fulung or Tali. Fulung to Keelung buses leave about once an hour.
Miscellaneous: It can be quite warm at the bottom of the trail and cool at the top, so pack a light jumper, especially if you plan on hanging out for awhile at the top. It's possible to buy snacks and tea along the way on weekends when travelling from north to south, but bring along some water anyway to keep hydrated through the steep parts.
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