Sun, May 13, 2012 - Page 20 News List

McNamara surfs largest wave ever ridden

Reuters, LOS ANGELES

Garrett McNamara of Haleiwa, Hawaii, who won the Biggest Wave title at this year’s Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards, poses on Nov. 10 last year with the surfboard that he used when he rode the record-breaking 78 foot wave at Nazare, Portugal, on Nov. 1.

Photo: Reuters

Big-wave surfer Garrett McNamara has been recognized by Guinness World Records for surfing the largest wave ever ridden, a towering 78 foot (24m) wall of water he caught at Nazare, Portugal, on Nov. 1 last year while “totally in the moment.”

McNamara’s record-setting feat was verified by Guinness after an independent panel of big-wave and photography experts painstakingly measured still and video images of the colossal wave, a spokeswoman for the agency said.

“I was totally in the moment. PCP. Present, connected and protected,” McNamara, 44, said in a telephone interview from his home in Haleiwa, Hawaii.

According to Guinness, the epic feat eclipsed by more than 1 foot the previous record, set in 2008 by big-wave surfing great Mike Parsons at Cortes Bank in California.

McNamara, who has surfed professionally since age 17, said he had not planned on going to the beach at all on the day he set the record, after spending the entire previous day in waves that “believe it or not, were a little bigger.”

He said friends woke him up early and persuaded him to come with them and that he went reluctantly — feeling “beat up” from the day before and only planning to drive the jet-ski used to tow big-wave surfers out far enough to catch the break.

“They talked me into getting on my board,” McNamara said. “And when I got on the board and they pulled me up everything just felt right, it was like magic.”

Towed out into a set of enormous waves by the jet-ski, McNamara passed up the first swell when he saw the record-setting behemoth shaping up behind it.

“We saw it coming from way out and my lady Nicole [Macias] was on the radio, saying: ‘There’s a big macker coming on the outside,’ and telling us where to go,” he said. “The guy tried to drive me into the first wave and I’m: ‘No, No. 2, No. 2!’ There was just this monster.”

McNamara said he was caught up in the moment as he rode the wave, then worked to stay in control of his board as the colossal wall of water drove him straight toward rocks where “if you fall, there’s not much chance of survival.”

The surfer said he knew the wave was big, but was not sure he had set a record until it was made official last week at the Billabong XXL Global Big Wave Awards in Anaheim, California.

“I really just surf for the love of it and I wasn’t looking to get the record,” he said.

“One the main reasons I’m doing this is to hopefully inspire at least one person to do what they love, to do what they are passionate about,” McNamara said. “I am living proof you can do what you love as a career.”

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