Wed, Jun 27, 2012 - Page 11 News List

The Paiwan version of zongzi
排灣族包粽 長條形蝸牛餡

A Paiwan woman makes zongzi in Taitung County on June 23.
一位排灣族女士六月二十三日於台東縣包粽子。

Photo: Chen Hsien-yi, Liberty Times
照片:自由時報記者陳賢義

The Paiwan tribe of Nanhui Township in Taitung County are no exception when it comes to making zongzi (glutinous rice wrapped in bamboo leaves) for the Dragon Boat Festival, which are called cheenafu in the Paiwan language. However, the shape and fillings used in Paiwan zongzi are quite different, and the Paiwan wrap glutinous rice in small shellflower leaves, forming a long and slender shape. Fillings differ according to personal preference. Some people like to fill them with fish from the river, snails or preserved mountain pork, while some people even put a big piece of salted mountain pork inside, creating flavors that are just as tasty as the typical Taiwanese zongzi.

Aboriginal zongzi are more unique than the ones made in non-Aboriginal areas. Chelengleng, a woman living in a local village in Taitung County, says that in ancient times cheenafu were usually only made during special occasions, for example, when children were being named, during harvest festivals or when nobility were getting married. Knowledge from their ancestors about how to make cheenafu has been passed down from generation to generation, and the Paiwan are very particular about the cheenafu-making process. She says that each village has its own distinct style due to the different foods that are grown locally. Some of the ingredients they use include taro root powder, millet, glutinous rice and sorghum powder. Cheenafu usually have a meat filling, while the outside is covered with nicandra leaves, which increases their aroma and creates a unique flavor, while at the same time decreasing the chances of uncomfortable bloatedness. The final product has a long, narrow shape.

TODAY’S WORDS 今日單字

1. snail /snel/ n.

蝸牛 (gua1 niu2)

例: Why are there always snails all over the sidewalk when it rains?

(為什麼下雨時人行道就會有很多蝸牛?)

2. preserved adj.

醃的 (yan1 de5)

例: They eat a lot of preserved foods because they don’t have refrigerators.

(他們因為沒有冰箱,所以吃很多醃過的食物。)

3. nobility n.

貴族 (gui4 zu2)

例: The prince and the princess were among the nobility attending the ceremony.

(參加儀式典禮的貴族包括王子與公主。)


Chelengleng says that the labor is split between men and women. Men are responsible for going up the mountain to pick nicandra leaves, while women are responsible for soaking the leaves, cooking the filling, and preserving the pork. In the past, the elderly would sing traditional songs and chat with the people making the cheenafu while sitting next to them, or use it as an opportunity to impart their knowledge. When the food is done cooking, the first thing that is done is letting the elderly try it, which is one part of traditional ethics that remains unchanged.

(Liberty Times, Translated by Kyle Jeffcoat)

端午包粽,台東南迴鄉鎮排灣族人也不例外,但包裹「奇拿富(米粽)」的形狀和內餡卻大不同,以月桃葉將浸泡糯米綑綁成長條狀,餡料則依個人喜好,有人放溪魚、蝸牛、醃山豬肉,有人直接擺上一大塊鹽醃生豬肉,吃起來與台灣粽同樣美味。

比起平地居民常見各式口味的粽子,原住民的粽子更顯獨特。台東縣當地部落有一位婦人「撤冷冷」說,古時包裹奇拿富大都在小孩出生命名、豐年祭典、貴族婚禮等時機,不但講究過程,還有許多祖傳智慧,選用食材也因各部落主要農作不同而有區別,有芋頭粉、小米、糯米及高粱粉等。奇拿富內層包上肉餡,外層包覆假酸漿葉,增加香氣和獨特口感,並減少可能造成脹氣的不適,最後再以月桃葉綁成長條型。

撤冷冷說,奇拿富的製作採男女分工,男生負責上山採擷月桃葉,浸泡糯米、炒餡料、醃漬豬肉等則由女人家負責;而以往包製過程中,年長者會在一旁吟唱傳統歌謠、聊天作陪,或藉機傳授手藝;另在煮熟起鍋,第一件事就是讓長輩先品嚐,這項傳統倫理至今不變。

(自由時報記者陳賢義)

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