The number four isn't very popular here. The Chinese characters for "four" and for "death" look quite different, but unfortunately sound much the same.
In a culture where numerology is revered, it's hardly surprising that the fourth anniversary of the July 1, 1997 reversion of this former British colony to Chinese rule might be viewed with ambivalence. But the gloom prevailing here goes far beyond mere superstition.
PHOTO: REUTERS
"There's still a sense of pessimism with regard to our economic future. There's a troubling lack of confidence in facing challenges," said political analyst Lau Siu-kai.
In addition to economic woes, some also worry that the city's leadership is giving in too much to Beijing in local affairs.
The government plans low-key celebrations for today: a flag-raising ceremony and an evening concert, with no top leaders from Beijing in attendance.
"Anniversary? What anniversary?" asked an analysis Friday in the South China Morning Post. "For most people, it will seem just like any other Sunday."
In a city where business rules supreme, a drop from last year's 10.5 percent economic growth to a forecast of 3 percent for this year hasn't helped the mood.
"The situation is better now than two years ago, but we are still suffering much, and we don't expect a recovery soon," said one recently laid-off 27-year-old computer worker.
Though unemployment has declined from a peak of 6.3 percent in 1999 during the Asian financial crisis, it still remains at a relatively high 4.6 percent in this city of 6.7 million. Social workers blame joblessness for the record number of suicides last year: 1,055; up from 1,013 in 1999 and 936 in 1998.
But city promoters point to Hong Kong's civil liberties, its legal system and its free market, intact after four years of Chinese rule, as evidence that Beijing's "one-country, two-systems" formula for preserving the city's autonomy is succeeding.
Friday's local edition of the state-run English-language China Daily featured an eight-page supplement quoting 16 prominent government and business figures extolling Hong Kong's strengths.
"Those quintessential qualities that have made Hong Kong such a unique and successful city are rigorously protected," it quoted Chief Executive Tung Chee-hwa (董建華), the city's top leader, as saying.
Tung noted that China's fast economic growth could be counted on to help buoy Hong Kong's own faltering economy. He pointed to investments in information technology, roads, railways and container terminals as evidence of the government's positive role in nurturing the city's place as a regional hub for tourism and trade.
"Yes, there are pretty good fundamentals in terms of institutions," analyst Lau admitted. "But there is a troubling decline in social unity due to a lack of political leadership."
The resignation this spring of the respected Anson Chan (陳方安生) as chief secretary of administration, the No. 2 position in Hong Kong's government, prompted speculation that she was quitting because of feuds with the less popular Tung.
The Hong Kong government's recent suggestion to the territory's highest court that it refer an immigration ruling to the central Beijing government -- as it did in an earlier case two years ago -- reinforced fears the city's Western-style judiciary may be ceding its independence.
When Tung described the Falun Gong meditation movement -- banned on the mainland but legal here -- as an "evil cult," critics worried that the government might begin to infringe on freedoms of association and religion.
This week, a debate in the legislature over a law to govern the next election of the chief executive erupted into a shouting match over a provision that would give Beijing the right to remove Hong Kong's top leader.
Critics contend that while Beijing has honored its pledge not to intervene in local affairs, Hong Kong's own leadership is undermining the territory's freedoms.
"The government is doing all it can to knock down the rule of law, pillar by pillar," said Michael DeGolyer, a political scientist at Hong Kong Baptist University. "It is throwing Hong Kong increasingly open to intervention."
Others say controversies over Beijing's role are inevitable as Hong Kong navigates its unique course as a citadel of capitalism within a communist-led nation.
"We always knew we'd face this political hurdle," said Christine Loh, a former legislator and frequent critic of Tung. "We're transiting from a colony where political leadership was never cultivated. We're growing up together."
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