Living and working in a densely-populated city, Taipei’s denizens are always looking to make full use of the space available to them. When it comes to food, in particular, every nook and cranny is up for grabs.
Street corners become makeshift storefronts for roasted chestnuts, puffed rice and peanut candy. At lunchtime, office workers flock to roadside vendors who sprout up and disappear like weeds after a passing shower. And behind every night market stall is a thorough study in the most efficient use of space.
These three hole-in-the-wall eateries are no exception, churning out bombastic flavors from tiny kitchens. Despite modest sizes, all have permanent locations and provide seating. Run by migrant chefs, they offer appetizing glimpses into the cuisines of India, Mexico and Peru.
Photo: Davina Tham, Taipei Times
EL SABROSO MEXICAN FOOD
The exuberant decorations at El Sabroso, which includes a few psychedelic pinatas, are evenly matched only by the piquancy of its dishes. Tortillas are made fresh in-house, elevating each burrito, taco and quesadilla to its maximum potential.
There is a choice of six meat fillings — beef, chicken and pork, each cooked two ways — for most dishes. The quesadilla (NT$205 to NT$235) is served in four generous slices, with toothsome fillings encased in a golden-brown tortilla that gives a pleasant chew and nuttiness, unlike other, paler renditions.
Photo: Davina Tham, Taipei Times
Blue-corn tacos (NT$195), a Cinco de Mayo special, are compact shells bursting with flavor. Regular tacos are otherwise usually only available on Tuesdays. These pair well with the remarkably creamy guacamole (NT$65), refried beans (NT$30) and selection of salsas, none of which ran particularly hot for this reviewer.
Tamales (NT$95) are packed tight with a stuffing of spicy shredded pork. Quench any flames with the creamy horchata (NT$75) and tart tamarind juice (NT$65) — even more economical as part of a set meal.
Seasoned grilled corn, or elote (NT$120), were sold out when this reviewer dined there on a Sunday night, but beckon for another visit. Burritos (NT$125 to NT$235) are another customer-favorite that make the perfect takeaway meal if you happen to be passing through.
Photo: Davina Tham, Taipei Times
Space is truly at a premium here. The narrow floorspace fits only five indoor seats, but three tables on the walkway outside seat two to four. Despite specializing in food designed to be eaten with the hands, El Sabroso does not provide any wash sink for customers, so it’s best to come prepared with your own hand wipes.
EL SABROSO MEXICAN FOOD
Address: 107, Tingzhou Rd Sec 3, Taipei City (台北市汀州路3段107號)
Photo: Davina Tham, Taipei Times
Telephone: (02) 2368-9599
Open: Tuesday to Sunday, 11am to 2pm and 5pm to 9pm
Average meal: NT$175 to NT$265
Photo: Davina Tham, Taipei Times
Details: Cash only; English and Chinese menu
On the Net: facebook.com/elsabrosomxfood
AMMA’S KITCHEN
Up a beat-up staircase and into a building that has seen better days, this eatery pulls away from its surroundings immediately with a bright blue door surrounded by twinkling fairy lights. Service is warm and enlivens the proceedings, while providing useful information about the food on offer.
Amma’s Kitchen specializes in South Indian fare, which is heavier on the rice, lentils and vegetables and lighter on the meat and dairy than North Indian cusine. The signature staple is dosa (NT$135 to NT$255), a large, crispy pancake made from a batter of fermented rice and lentils, eaten with a variety of fillings and sauces. Idli (NT$180 to NT$190) are a smaller, steamed, cake-like version.
Basmati rice, a long-grain variety that has a looser, less sticky texture than local rice, is also done well here. The grains are fully cooked but fluffy, tender and fragrant. Rice ranges from a plain accompaniment (NT$25), through different spiced versions, into a main dish in its own right in the form of vegetable pulao (NT$230).
The menu is expansive, spanning deep-fried savory appetizers from pakora (NT$140) to samosas (NT$220 to NT$250), spice-infused curries (NT$295 to NT$375) that tend toward a watery consistency and biryani (NT$175 to NT$340), basmati rice infused with spices and cooked with meat that tends to be the showstopper of a meal. Masala tea (NT$75) rounds off the meal nicely, although lassi, or drinking yogurt (NT$85), might be a prudent choice for those who struggle with chili.
Visitors are advised to consult the waiter and stick to the South Indian specialities, as dishes from other regions can be hit-and-miss. The butter chicken (NT$305), palak paneer or cheese in spinach gravy (NT$265) and aloo gobi masala or cauliflower and potatoes (NT$220), which all hail from North India, did not quite hit the spot.
The eatery draws young locals who are adventurous eaters, as well as migrants from the Indian subcontinent hankering for a taste of home. The weekday business lunch sets (NT$150 to NT$220) are an even more affordable way to sample a taste of Amma’s Kitchen.
AMMA’S KITCHEN
Address: 2F, 100-93, Roosevelt Rd Sec 3, Taipei City (台北市羅斯福路三段100-93號2樓)
Telephone: 0987-654-330
Open: Daily, 11:30am to 2:30pm and 5pm to 9pm
Average meal: NT$200 to NT$500
Details: Cash only; 10 percent service charge; English and Chinese menu
On the Net: www.bit.ly/2kmBjht
POLLERIA
This eatery specializes in only one dish — chicken, marinated in a Peruvian spice mix and roasted for one-and-a-half hours. The meat is cooked in an industrial oven that fits 48 chickens at one go and is such a behemoth that containing it indoors seems a pointless endeavor. Cooking is done outside in the front courtyard, while diners sit in the air-conditioned area in the back.
Chicken is served by the quarter piece (for example, a thigh and drumstick) with a combination of green cilantro rice, fries or salad (NT$299 to NT$349). The set comes with a standard soft drink, but for another NT$90, this can be replaced with chicha morada, a refreshing beverage made in-house with purple corn, pineapples, apples and cinnamon imported from Peru.
The chicken is tender and seasoned through, with an especially tasty, dark skin. Accompanying sauces are not to be sneered at, neither the salmon-colored spicy sauce that pairs with the chicken, nor the bright salad dressing.
POLLERIA
Address: 61-5, Guling St, Taipei City
(北市牯嶺街61-5號)
Telephone: 0979-511-540
Open: Wednesday to Sunday, noon to 9pm
Average meal: NT$299 to NT$349
Details: Cash only; English and Chinese menu
On the Net: www.polleria.tw
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