Everyone knows about oranges, right? They are the edible citrus fruit of choice over much of the planet. But what is often ignored is the sheer variety of oranges out there, providing a wide pallet of flavors, with some varieties better for juice, others for eating and others for incorporation into desserts.
I was surprised when I first came to Taiwan that the fresh orange juice that I got at a stall in the traditional market tasted very different from what I was used to in Australia. It took me quite a while to get used to it, with its thinner, sharper flavor. But now I find these ubiquitous oranges, designated in Taiwan as liuding (柳丁), to be just perfect for almost any application. In season, they are extremely cheap and delicious, and do not share some of the main disadvantages of imported oranges.
Oranges imported from the US or South America, the main international producers of oranges, are probably still the major source of oranges in Taiwan, but many of these have been treated to ensure that they remain attractive after their long journey from abroad.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
Oranges may undergo cleaning with detergent, “de-greening” with ethylene gas and may even be dyed to improve their orange color. Wax polish is often used to reduce moisture loss, and the substances used for this are regarded by some as being less than beneficial for health, with some recommending that waxed orange rind not be consumed even after scrubbing. As someone who loves to use the zest and rind of citrus fruit, this is a major concern, and buying good quality local products gets around the worst of these problems.
The liuding orange sold in Taiwan has a skin that is often mottled with orange, yellow and green, but don’t be put off by this. They don’t have the bright sheen of navel or Valencia oranges, nor do they produce the same deeply flavored juice. They are not particularly easy to peel either. These are all minor disadvantages to be embraced in the name of supporting local farmers producing fruit that have not been ruthlessly tampered with in the name of marketability.
It is generally thought that oranges originated in China as their scientific name Citrus sinensis makes clear. Historical records suggest that they were originally cultivated primarily for the rind and the fragrant oils that it contains. Our ancestors clearly realized that the rind of the orange was where its most essential flavor resided, something we have forgotten in our modern rush to rapid consumption.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
The sweet orange such as liuding, Valencia and navel are all part of an extensive network of hybrids that stem from the cross breeding of the mandarin orange and the pomelo. The mandarin orange, which are particularly popular over the Lunar New Year period, have a distinctively different flavor profile, and in the kitchen are not universally interchangeable with sweet oranges.
The health benefits provided by oranges are almost too numerous to mention, the most universally acknowledged being its richness in Vitamin C. In fact, studies have shown that a glass of juice is superior to taking Vitamin C supplements, probably due to other complex antioxidant compounds contained in the fruit. As with other fruit and vegetables that I have looked at in this column, it seems that nature’s bounty is virtually always better than even the most elaborate attempts to replicate its benefits in more convenient or marketable forms. Just eat an orange, local and naturally grown, and be content that you are doing yourself and the world more good than harm.
The accompanying recipe is a particular favorite as it makes use of the whole orange — rind, flesh and juice — the only part finding its way into the compost being the bitter white pith. When buying high quality fruit, it always seems more satisfactory to maximize its use.
Orange and Maqaw Pound Cake with Candied Orange
Recipe
(10-12 slices)
Pound cakes are one of the staples of baking that use ingredients that are often staples of the home pantry, or are easily procured, put together on a simple ratio using not much more than a standard mixer. While oranges are available all year round, this recipe benefits from them being in season locally, making it easier to obtain organic oranges, a boon particularly as the zest, the outer layer of skin, is used as a major flavoring agent. The recipe also uses maqaw, also called mountain pepper, an ingredient used in the cuisine of Taiwan’s Aboriginal people (see Taipei Times Saturday Nov. 26, 2016). I generally incorporate the whole grain of the maqaw, which scatters little explosions of flavor through the cake. The maqaw can also be mashed for a more even spread.
Ingredients
For the cake
150g all-purpose flour, sifted
150g sugar (plus 3 tbsp for the syrup)
2 oranges (preferably unwaxed)
10g maqaw corns, whole
1 tsp baking powder
a generous pinch of salt
3 eggs
3 tbsp milk
190g butter
For the candied orange
1 orange (preferably unwaxed)
bowl of ice water
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 tbsp orange juice
Directions
For the cake
1. Butter a loaf tin and line the base with parchment. Preheat oven to 180c.
2. Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and maqaw corns in a large bowl. Use a mixer to gently mix the dry ingredients together.
3. Wash the oranges well and then use a zester to finely grate the outer layer. Squeeze the juice.
4. Break the eggs into a small bowl, and combine with the zest and a splash of juice. Whisk the mixture lightly.
5. Add the butter to the flour mixture and pour in half of the egg mixture. Beat until the mixture is moist and no streaks of flour remain, using a spatula to scrape down the sides. Add the rest of the egg mixture one half at a time, beating well after each addition.
6. Pour into the loaf tin and place in the preheated oven.
7. Bake for 20 minutes. Then use a sharp knife to cut a line down the center of the loaf and bake for a further 10 minutes. Tent a sheet of aluminum foil over the tin and bake for a final 25 minutes or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.
8. Place on a cooling rack to cool.
9. As the cake cools, add 3 tbsp of sugar and the orange juice (approx. 60ml) to a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring to ensure all the sugar has dissolved, then remove from heat.
10. Use a skewer to poke holes in the top of the cake, then brush it with the hot syrup. Let the cake cool for an hour at least before serving.
For the candied orange
1. Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil and add orange slices.
2. Boil for 1 minute then place in the bowl of ice water until cooled. Drain.
3. Using a small skillet, bring the sugar, water and orange juice to a boil over medium heat and stir to dissolve the sugar.
4. Turn heat to low and place orange slices in the sugar-water in a single layer.
5. Simmer (do not boil) the orange slices 45-60 minutes or until rinds are slightly translucent, turning every 15 minutes.
6. Place orange slices on a cooling rack and allow to cool completely, about 1 hour.
Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table, a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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