With the arrival of mangos and pineapples in the market stands, it is now the perfect time to enjoy these quintessential tropical fruits. These gastronomic symbols of summer are wonderful in so many ways, not least simply chilled and eaten unadorned as a refreshing antidote to the summer heat. But they are also incredibly versatile and are wonderful added to all kinds of desserts and savory dishes.
Mangos for me have always been the highlight of summer. The most frequently seen in Taiwan’s markets in this early part of the season is the Irwin mango (艾文芒果), which although not as famous as the Indian Alphonso mango (the most prized of all mangos), it is perfectly delicious and can be used in many of the same dishes. The local Jinhuang (金皇芒果) variety is also becoming available about now, but despite the ample quantities of flesh that this jumbo mango yields, I find the flavor a little bland. Later in the season, appearing in late August is the Keitt (凱特) mango, with its wonderfully firm flesh and occasional hint of sourness that makes it fantastic in savory dishes.
There are many more, each with their own character, and it is one of the delights of summer to discover previously untried cultivars. But at this time of year, Irwin mangos are my household staple, serving as the basis of savory salsas to go with meat dishes, an ingredient in fruit salads, or as the star of a cooling smoothie.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
Mangos are rich in a wide variety of vitamins and minerals, including vitamin C, which helps boost the immune system and vitamin A, which promotes sharp vision, and B6, which plays a role in cognitive development. They are also a good source of folate, which helps support a healthy heart, as well as a great cure for an acidic stomach.
Packed as it is with all these good things, one of my own favorite summertime lunches is a mango lassi, an Indian yogurt drink that can be thrown together in minutes and which gives you an energy boost for the whole day. Just throw one chopped up mango (the drink tastes different depending on the type of mango, but is always delicious), 150ml of plain yogurt, the juice of two limes, 2 tablespoons of brown sugar, and some ground cardamom seeds into a blender with a little ice and blitz the mixture. If you find a good batch of mangos, it’s easy to stock up, for although the ripe fruit is highly perishable, you can cube the meat and freeze it, which keeps it well for at least a couple of months.
Best friends with mangos on the dining table are pineapples, which are also hitting their peak about now. The mixture of sweet and tart makes it ideal for all kinds of fruit salads and juices, and in Taiwan, freshly cut pineapple is widely available from fruit trucks and in traditional markets. As with mangos, there are a great variety available, but the workhorse of pineapple cultivation is the diamond pineapple (金鑽鳳梨) variety, which has great good balance of sweet and tart flavor. Later in the season, varieties such as the white-fleshed milk pineapple (牛奶鳳梨) and the finely-textured and juicy apple pineapple (蘋果鳳梨, so named because it is said to have the fragrance of apples) are also prolific and provide quite a different spin on pineapple dishes.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
Pineapple is great eaten fresh (with just a sprinkling of salt to bring out the sweetness), but truth be told, my own favorite preparation is to have them cooked in sugar and butter (see recipe) and served with ice cream or other desserts.
As with carrots, pineapples are said to be great for your eyes, retarding age-related macular degeneration, the primary cause of vision loss in older people. Various studies have shown it to be excellent in aiding digestion, and it is rich in manganese and vitamin B1, aiding energy production and the body’s antioxidant defenses.
Counterbalancing these good things, it should be noted that both mango and pineapple cultivation often make use of large quantities of chemical pesticides, and it is therefore worthwhile seeking out organic fruit. These do not necessarily taste better, despite the premium price, but can be consumed with fewer health and environmental qualms.
Mango Panna Cotta with Caramelized Pineapple (serves four to six)
This dessert manages to look and taste rather more exotic and fancy than its quick preparation time would suggest. Agar powder (洋菜粉) is easily available in Taiwan and is an excellent substitute for gelatin with the added advantage that it is suitable for vegetarians and vegans. It is a jelly-like substance obtained from algae and is widely used in Asian sweets. It gives a slightly firmer texture than gelatin, sets very quickly and is able to retain its shape at room temperature.
Ingredients
For the panna cotta
1 mango
1 tsp agar powder
80ml warm water
1 cup heavy cream
1/8 cup sugar
1 cup milk
1/2 tsp vanilla essence
pinch salt
For the caramelized pineapple
1/2 a pineapple
20g butter
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup water
mint leaves, to garnish
Directions
1. Lightly grease 4-6 ramekins, depending on size, with a neutral tasting oil such as rapeseed or sunflower.
2. Peel and dice the mango and place the cubes in the ramekins.
3. In a small saucepan, sprinkle the agar powder over the warm water and stir over low heat until dissolved.
4. In another small saucepan, heat the cream and sugar to a low simmer. Whisk until dissolved.
5. Add the agar mixture and whisk into the cream, making sure there are no lumps. Add vanilla and milk. Whisk until well mixed.
6. Pour into ramekins and place in the fridge. The panna cotta should set within an hour.
7. Prepare the pineapple by cutting away the skin, making sure to remove the “eyes,” the hard, spiky bits that are sometimes embedded in the flesh after the skin is cut away.
8. Cut pineapple into wedges and slice away the fibrous heart. Generously coat the wedges in sugar.
9. Heat butter in a skillet over medium heat. Cook the pineapple wedges until they color, turning occasionally, about 10 minutes.
10. Remove the pineapple and set aside. Add water to the sugar and butter mixture and stir, cooking for about 2 or 3 minutes to make a simple caramel sauce.
11. Unmold the panna cotta onto the plate. Place the wedges of pineapple onto the plate and top with the caramel sauce. Decorate with mint leaves.
Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table, a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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