Asparagus is here and even in an age of yearlong availability of most vegetables, the arrival of thick stems of green and white asparagus in the markets is something to celebrate. Despite the huge advances in food technology, asparagus, which loses its delicious flavor and texture quite rapidly, remains very much at the mercy of the seasons.
This delicate vegetable also labors under the burden of being an excellent diuretic, but one that gives the urine a noticeable, and to some, unpleasant smell. The reason for this smell has been the subject of much study, but there is still no consensus as to what exactly causes it. There is a large pool of suspects who scientists at one time or another have mooted as being responsible for the odor — at least 21 different compounds — but none has been incontrovertibly fingered as the culprit. That said, there are certainly no suggestions of negative health implications, and any social embarrassment that might be caused by those concerned with the smell of other people’s urine is far outweighed by the delights of eating this delicately flavored vegetable.
Asparagus is the ultimate quick food. It requires care in its preparation, but long cooking does it no favors — a minute or two in the steamer or lightly salted boiling water is often all that is needed. Five or six minutes under the grill with a sprinkling of good salt and some thyme can produce some pretty spectacular results too. At a pinch, throwing it into the pan for a stir fry with some shredded pork makes a great meal all by itself. It is all about handling the timing, making sure that you cook it through but preserve its juicy crunch, the ultimate expression of the asparagus’ ephemeral freshness.
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
Asparagus has long been known to have powerful benefits to health, particularly in the treatment of digestive disorders, with some claiming definitive medicinal and culinary uses as early as five thousand years ago. Asparagus contains high levels of inulin, a nutrient that, when ingested, passes through to the large intestine and becomes an ideal food source of beneficial bacteria such as bifidobacteria and lactobacilli that are associated with better nutrient absorption, lower risk of allergy and lower risk of colon cancer.
Asparagus is also known for having aphrodisiac properties. While there is little scientific support for this claim, the resemblance of asparagus tips to a tumescent and over excited male member suggests that imagination may have got the better of early commentators, one of whom suggests that it can counteract sexual fatigue. If this were really the case, it would probably sell more than the already outlandish prices demanded for this premium product. But for all that, whether it is digestive health, fragrant urine or simply great taste, asparagus in spring really cannot be beaten for a sense of vernal celebration.
Recipe for spring salad of asparagus, ham and shrimp, with yogurt dressing
Photo: Ian Bartholomew
(Serves 4)
Asparagus is traditionally served with a hollandaise dressing, and this is tremendous when freshly made, the eggy richness a superb foil to the delicate pungency of the asparagus. And as quick and easy as a hollandaise is to whip up once you’ve got the knack, it does require a certain level of commitment that is not always available. This recipe uses a simple yogurt and lemon dressing that can be created in seconds, and draws on a particular favorite flavor combination, a mixture of salty ham and sweet shrimp to highlight the subtle flavor of asparagus. While the yogurt dressing doesn’t have the luscious velvet feel of hollandaise, it is tangy and refreshing instead, perfect for warm spring afternoons or late summer nights, as part of a light meal to be washed down with a glass or three of white wine.
Ingredients
For the salad
4 stems green asparagus
4 stems white asparagus
16 fresh white shrimp, peeled and deveined
100g thinly sliced ham (I actually use cold roast belly pork, which has a high ratio of fat to meat. I find this particularly attractive, adding a luscious quality to the dish, but it is definitely not for everyone. A good quality lean ham will do the job perfectly.)
3 eggs, room temperature
1 head of butterhead lettuce (Romaine or other tasty leaves will do just as well, though do avoid the ubiquitous iceberg lettuce, which usually contributes almost nothing to the taste.)
Salt and pepper
For the dressing
1 cup homemade yogurt
Juice of half a lemon
1 tsp finely chopped parsley
1 tsp finely chopped basil
1 tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper
Directions
1. Prepare the eggs. Bring a pot of water to the boil. Place the eggs into the water with a slotted spoon. Bring back to a boil then cover. Immediately remove from heat. Keep in the covered pot for 15 minutes then remove and run under a cold tap until cool, then set aside.
2. Prepare the shrimp. Place in boiling water. Bring back to a boil and then cook for 1 minute. Remove and cool.
3. Prepare the asparagus. Wash thoroughly, as grit can accumulate in the tips. Peel off the fibrous exterior. Cut off the woody ends at the base. Use your judgment as to how much of the skin must be removed. (White asparagus grown in Taiwan can have a very thick outer layer and you must be fearless in removing all of this, as it can at best be bitter and at worst be completely inedible).
4. Cut the asparagus into two or three sections, depending on the size of your steamer.
5. Bring water to a boil in the steamer.
6. Place the asparagus into the steamer basket on a layer of moistened kitchen paper. Season lightly with salt and pepper.
7. Cook over high heat for 4 minutes. Remove and allow to cool.
8. Place well washed and dried lettuce leaves in the base of a bowl. Wrap the stems of the asparagus in ham. Place the asparagus over the lettuce, then add the egg, shrimp and dressing.
9. Serve immediately topped with a sprinkling of chopped basil and parsley.
Ian Bartholomew runs Ian’s Table, a small guesthouse in Hualien. He has lived in Taiwan for many years writing about the food scene and has decided that until you look at farming, you know nothing about the food you eat. He can be contacted at Hualien202@gmail.com.
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