Thu, Dec 12, 2013 - Page 12 News List

Caught between two worlds

The once-nomadic Penan people are struggling to find their place in modern Malaysia

By Dan Martin  /  AFP, LONG KELUAN, Malaysia

Children of the Penan tribe play in Long Keluan, in Malaysia’s Sarawak state on the island of Borneo.

Photo: AFP

Through eons spent roaming Borneo’s rainforests, Malaysia’s Penan people became supremely adapted to surviving, and thriving, in the wild. But that has left the Penan — keepers of a rapidly-disappearing semi-nomadic culture — equally unprepared for the transition to a modern world that is closing in fast.

“Under the old ways we could do whatever we wanted and easily find what we need in the forest,” said Dau Labong, headwoman of the ramshackle settlement of Long Keluan in the rugged interior of Sarawak, Malaysia’s largest and wildest state.

About 10 years ago, the community followed most of Sarawak’s estimated 16,000 Penan in abandoning nomadic life in a rainforest whose ability to sustain them has been depleted by logging and encroaching plantations.

But her band of a few dozen is struggling to adapt to concepts like settled agriculture and a money economy.

Once free in the forest, they are now “controlled” by the need to grow crops and earn money — some work for logging companies — to purchase meat and other supplies.

“We have not found what we want and we need the government to help us,” Dau Labong said, anxiety on her face as she sat in one of the village’s four rickety shacks in a steamy forest clearing as distant chain saws droned.

The ultimate rainforest stewards, the Penan formerly lived off the land using a renowned knowledge of the jungle and sustainable foraging practices.

Hunting with blowpipes and poison-tipped darts, they gathered medicinal plants, fruit and sago palm — which yielded a pasty staple starch — and rattan for weaving.

But logging and commercial agriculture have turned their world upside-down.

Data published in the US journal Science last month showed Malaysia lost 14.4 percent of its forests from 2000-2012, the world’s highest rate.

“The land has become yellow,” said Long Keluan elder Udau Abong, 87, whose swaying earlobes are stretched from a fast-disappearing traditional form of piercing.

‘THEY JUST CAN’T CONTINUE’

The Penan captured world attention in the 1980s and 1990s with their attempts to resist logging and through Swiss environmental activist Bruno Manser, who waged a crusade to protect Penan forests and culture. He vanished in 2000 — many suspect foul play.

Most Penan have settled in fixed communities in a trend that first began in the 1960s under Christian missionary influence and has accelerated.

“Even the nomadic ones basically made a collective decision in the last decade that they just can’t continue with the nomadic livelihood because the forest has been depleted. Most of the primary forest is gone,” said Lukas Straumann, head of the environmentalist Bruno Manser Fund.

Dau Labung’s people are trying to plant rice, but with mixed success, she said.

They no longer trade for other goods using their finely woven rattan products as most Penan once did. Formerly plentiful, wild rattan is increasingly scarce.

Dau Labong wants more schools, roads and other government support for the Penan’s transition to modernity.

Her 11-year-old son Maxwell, whose sports medals adorn their home’s rough wooden walls, attends the nearest primary school a day’s walk away. She can’t afford to send him on to a secondary school two day’s journey downriver. “I want to study to be a guru,” Maxwell said, using the Malay word for teacher.

Penan are at risk of falling behind and new problems like depression and alcoholism, said Jayl Langub, an anthropologist at University Malaysia Sarawak.“Once the forest is no longer there, you lose your activities and turn to drinking,” he said.

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