Sat, Jul 20, 2013 - Page 12 News List

Restaurant review: Enishi 麵屋緣

By Ian Bartholomew  /  Staff reporter

While the noodle dish provides only one (though quite generous) slice of roast pork, additional meat can be obtained as a side dish (NT$50), which is warmed using a blowtorch flame directly applied to the meat. For those looking for a more hearty meal, a bowl of mixed grain rice is available for NT$30, which can be eaten on its own or mixed with the sauce and eaten as a porridge (recommended).

There is a small selection of desserts. The homemade yogurt (特製和風優格, NT$50) is an excellent choice. The yogurt itself is tangy and slightly sour, and is topped with a syrup made of black sugar that adds a hint of sweetness, but more importantly, it adds a complex flavor of unprocessed sugar. Tea is provided free with meals, and Enishi also serves bottled Kirin beer (NT$70) imported from Japan, a very different beast from the tinned variety generally available here.

Service is efficient, but plating lacked just a little in its precision. The simplicity of the food focused attention on the smallest details, and even small smears of sauce up the side of the bowl that would be ignored at most noodle restaurants, appeared at Enishi to be sloppy. The absence of tables makes Enishi unsuitable for big parties, but ideal for the lone diner or groups of two or three, who can sit at the counter and enjoy the interesting mixture of pared down simplicity and culinary theater.

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