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RESTAURANTS : Arcadia 花岩山林

Arcadia 花岩山林 Address: 104-1, Youmu Rd, Youmu Ward, Sansia Township, Taipei County (台北縣三峽鎮有木里有木路104 之1 號) Telephone: (02) 2674-9618 Open: 10am to 10pm Average meal: NT$500 Details: Chinese menu; credit cards accepted On the Net: www.arcadias.tw, arcadias.emmm.tw

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There are some restaurants you go to for food, and there are others you go to for atmosphere. Arcadia falls in the latter category. Checking out the Web site, it became clear that the food would be the elegantly presented, highly processed fast variety so beloved in Taipei’s business lunch cafes. Its setting on the other hand, in a 6.5-hectare private forest in Sansia Township (三峽鎮), seemed immensely appealing.

Perched on a hillside overlooking a river valley, Arcadia provides magnificent views from its outdoor dining area. Scenic cafes are not exactly a rarity in the hills surrounding Taipei, but Arcadia distinguishes itself with the remarkable efficiency of its operation and careful attention to detail. Seated in an outdoor booth, it was a pleasant surprise to discover sliding glass windows on three sides and also roll-up blinds, features that give guests full control over the extent of their open-air experience.

Arriving on a wet Sunday after a 20-minute drive along mountain roads, the place was thronged with a lunchtime crowd of families. The menu, though extensive, is predictable and cleverly priced at a comfortable mid-range, just a trifle more than you would expect to pay at a nondescript restaurant in Taipei.

The selection of six hot pots was clearly a favorite among diners; served with a choice of pork, beef or mutton, and with a drink and dessert (NT$400). The Italian fresh tomato hot pot (義式鮮採蕃茄鍋) had a powerfully salty soup base that might, despite its name, have originated in a tin, and some rather dodgy mass-market dumplings floating atop.

The serving of meat was not particularly generous, but there were plenty of vegetables, and the whole ensemble appeared appetizing even if flavor-wise it left much to be desired.

Two vegetarian options are available, one a hot pot (NT$400), and the other pine nut and wild mushroom on spinach tagliatelle (NT$380, 松子野菇鮮蔬菠菜寬麵), served with a salad, bread, soup, coffee and dessert. While the tagliatelle was bland, the dish nevertheless carefully observes religious and dietary restrictions.

A children’s menu includes spring chicken and a mini five-ounce sirloin (NT$300), served with fries. Despite my reservations about the highly processed nature of the food, the menu has clearly been meticulously designed to encompass a wide spectrum of tastes.

A large variety of elaborate tea drinks (NT$160 to NT$180) are available, as well as, amidst the selection of waffles, French fries and the like, an English afternoon tea special (NT$320, 英式下午茶) that bizarrely combines bagels, custard puffs, cake and New Orleans spicy chicken wings (available between 2:30pm and 5pm).

One of the waiters said that the outdoor dining area is hot during summer, but with fall in full swing, the setting could not have been more pleasant. Furthermore, a more formal indoor dining area is also an option. Out back, visitors can find a small herb garden that provides a veneer of freshness to the operation, beyond which lie walking trails that lead to various lookouts, as well as picnic and barbecue areas. Arcadia also offers accommodation for those interested in a lengthier stay. While I cannot recommend Arcadia as a place to indulge in fine dining, the food is more than adequate if you know what to expect and, as far as a lovely rustic experience goes, it is certainly an excellent choice.

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