Micro-mini skirts and leggings in bright ruched satins pointed to the direction of the new artistic adviser: Lohan is often photographed in almost nonexistent skirts and already designs a range of leggings under the label 6126. (The name refers to the birth date — 1 June 1926 — of Marilyn Monroe.)
“I feel like there’s a correlation between everything I do, whether it’s pop music or film,” said Lohan last month when her Ungaro role was announced. The actress, pictures of whom looking “tired and emotional” are frequently found in the tabloids, underlined this synergy yesterday by bursting into tears halfway through her catwalk turn. As Lohan found herself overcome with emotion in front of the photographers, Archs could be seen gripping her hand and guiding her firmly backstage.
The shock appointment of Lohan is seen as a bold — even desperate — roll of the dice for the house of Ungaro, which has struggled to find a voice in fashion since its founding designer retired in 2004. A succession of talented designers have taken on the role since then — Peter Dundas is now at Emilio Pucci, while Giambattista Valli designs a successful label under his own name — but none have succeeded in making Ungaro creditable or profitable.
In a world in which prestige is paramount, linking the Ungaro name with a tabloid celebrity is a huge risk. But the label hopes that the swarm of paparazzi who follow Lohan on her late-night exploits can provide the kind of buzz and excitement that late nights in the design studio with safety pins and sketchbooks have failed to spark.
Mouffarige, the chief executive, might be said to have form in making unconventional appointments. Twelve years ago he replaced Karl Lagerfeld with a 25-year-old Stella McCartney as chief designer at Chloe, a move much mocked at the time but which turned out to be shrewd. And from Victoria Beckham’s sell-out dresses to Kate Moss for Topshop, celebrity fashion has proved hugely popular with consumers.
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