It’s hard not to feel a tinge of emotion when standing inside the Paper Dome (紙教堂), a temporary church originally constructed in the aftermath of Japan’s Kobe Earthquake of 1995.
Architect Shigeru Ban decided to build the structure when he saw worshippers in Kobe holding prayer services in the rubble of the Takatori Church, which had burnt down after the quake. He assembled a team of more than 100 volunteers from the local community to build a replacement church made of cheap and recycled materials.
The Paper Dome was transported from Japan to Taiwan several years ago as a gesture of solidarity with survivors of the 921 Earthquake of 1999, which claimed more than 2,400 lives and remains one of the nation’s deadliest natural disasters in nearly a century. It was rebuilt and opened last year as a tourist attraction in Taomi Village (桃米村) in Nantou County’s Puli Township, near the quake’s epicenter.
The new locale adds a new significance to the Paper Dome (which Ban originally called the “Paper Church”). When the quake struck, Taomi had lost more than half of its buildings and was already on the verge of economic collapse as one of Puli’s poorest villages. After the quake, it was reborn as an eco-tourism destination and now offers a successful example of post-disaster recovery based on environmental conservation [See Page 13 of the Sept. 20, 2009, edition of the Taipei Times for the full story.]
The oval-shaped Paper Dome is beautiful in its simplicity and modesty. Its classical design conveys a quiet dignity and reverence, with unadorned columns and a high arched ceiling formed by a tent. The humble building materials adhere to Taomi’s eco-village ethos: the support columns and pews are made of industrial-grade recycled paper tubes.
The Paper Dome (紙教堂) is located in Taomi Village, Puli Township, and is a 10-minute car ride from the Kuokuang Motor Transport Company (國光客運) bus station in Puli. Local buses go to Taomi, but do not run frequently. Taxi fares from the bus station to Taomi range from NT$200 to NT$250. Admission to the Paper Dome is NT$50
Getting there
From Taipei, Kuokuang buses leave for Puli every hour from 6am to 7pm on weekdays and 6am to 9pm on weekends. Tickets are NT$400 one way, NT$720 round trip. The trip takes about four hours
Eco-touring in Taomi
Taomi Village was able to recover from the 921 Earthquake by reinventing itself as an “eco-village.” The area is home to a unique ecosystem of wetlands, creeks and forests that hosts a diversity of wildlife, including more than half of Taiwan’s 32 frogs species and more than a third of Taiwan’s dragonfly and bird species. Community residents maintain at least a dozen conservation areas, with 30 local certified tour guides specializing in wildlife and botany. A guided tour is highly recommended if you’re interested in learning about the local wildlife or visiting the conservation areas. Tours are generally separated into morning, afternoon and evening sessions, but can be tailored to individual and group needs. For more information, contact the Taomi Community Development Association (桃米社區發展協會) at (049) 291-8030 or 0928-365-587. Tours are only given in Mandarin or Hoklo (commonly known as Taiwanese), but guides can accommodate translators. Contact the association for more details
Where to stay
Sanmaowu (三茅屋)
Sanmaowu is a hilltop guesthouse that charms guests with a spacious outdoor patio and a beautiful, well-groomed yard and gardens. But it’s not just about looks — owner Liao Yung-kun (廖永坤) is a certified eco-tour guide who knows every centimeter of the vegetation on the grounds, which include an idyllic-looking pond full of lilies and frogs at the bottom of the hill. At a moment’s notice, Liao will don his hat and wading boots for an impromptu tour, pointing out which plants are edible (guests can chew on leaves from a cinnamon tree) and frogs you probably didn’t know were right in front of you. Rooms are modestly furnished but very clean and spacious. Freshly prepared meals are also available. Rates run between NT$1,500 and NT$3,000 per night. Reservations are recommended
Telephone: Contact Liao Yung-kun at (049) 291-2146 or 0933-196-448
Red Villa (紅瓦厝)
If you’re curious about life in a Sanheyuan (三合院) — the traditional red brick houses divided into three separate compounds, this is the place to go. Owner Guan Yu-fu’s (官裕富) grandfather built the house in the 1950s, but the land, tucked away in the hills of Taomi, has belonged to the family since the end of the Qing Dynasty. Guan, who became an eco-tour guide nearly 10 years ago, renovated the house to accommodate as many as 16 guests. He also built several frog-friendly ponds — enjoy the sound of running natural-spring water and frogs that chirp and honk while you sip tea in one of Red Villa’s three rustic outdoor pavilions. Guan entertains guests with his dry humor and subtle wit, and you’ll be hard pressed to find home-cooked Hakka food as good as this anywhere else. Rates run between NT$1,500 and NT$2,100 per night. Reservations are recommended
Telephone: Contact Guan Yu-fu at 0937-262-758
On the Net: www.redvilla.com.tw
Also consider
Woody House (綠屋民宿)
Telephone: Contact Chiu Fu-tien (邱富添) at 0937-291-695
On the Net: http://0492916829.travel-web.com.tw
From the outside, the Paper Dome, which covers nearly 170m2, looks like a rectangular box with a tent roof. The outer walls are actually a set of 40 weatherproof plastic doors, which can be folded away to let in natural light during the day. At night, from a distance, the building looks like a giant candle-lit lantern.
The idea to bring the Paper Dome to Taiwan came from Liao Chia-chan (廖嘉展), chairman of New Homeland Foundation
(新故鄉文教基金會), a Puli-based non-government organization, or NGO, devoted to helping the area’s poorer communities with economic development.
While in Japan in 2005 for the 10th anniversary of the Kobe Earthquake, Liao learned that the Paper Dome would be torn down as the church’s congregation had outgrown the space. He immediately thought of bringing it to Taiwan, as it could serve as a symbolic “exchange platform” between Japan and Taiwan on matters related to earthquake recovery.
After three years of filling out government applications, fundraising and consulting with Ban and community residents in Kobe, the Paper Dome opened to the Taiwanese public on the ninth anniversary of the 921 Earthquake.
Surrounded by grassy fields, gardens and knolls, the Paper Dome sits next to an outdoor pavilion that serves as a community space and cafe created by renowned architect Jay Chiu (邱文傑), who designed the 921 Earthquake Museum of Taiwan (九 二 一 地震教育園區) in Taichung County.
Chiu, who also oversaw rebuilding of the Paper Dome in Taomi, designed the pavilion to contrast with the classical feel of the Paper Dome. Yet it shares the same affinity for the area’s natural surroundings. Painted in a pastel green, the roofed structure is full of gentle, soothing curves and geometric patterns. The pavilion immediately feels welcoming and serves as the entrance to the grounds of the Paper Dome.
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