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Matsu in motion

TACHIA MATSU PILGRIMAGE: Departure from Jenn Lann Temple, Tachia, Taichung County at 11pm on Sunday DAY ONE (SUNDAY): Overnight at Nanyao Temple, Changhua City (彰化市南瑤宮) DAY TWO (MONDAY): Overnight at Fuhsing Temple, Siluo Township (西螺鎮福興宮) DAY THREE (TUESDAY):Overnight at Fengtien Temple, Singang Township (新港鄉奉天宮) DAY FOUR (WEDNESDAY):Main blessing ceremony at 8am, overnight at Fengtien Temple, Singang Township (新港鄉奉天宮) DAY FIVE (THURSDAY):Overnight at Fuhsing Temple, Siluo Township (西螺鎮福興宮) DAY SIX (MARCH 27): Overnight at Chengan Temple, Beidou Townshio (北斗鎮奠安宮) DAY SEVEN (MARCH 28): Overnight at Tienhou Temple, Changhua City (彰化市天后宮) DAY EIGHT (MARCH 29):Return to Jenn Lann Temple, Tachia Township (大甲鎮鎮瀾宮)

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Some might think walking 300km in eight days is something one would want to do only once, if at all.

But not Wu Yi-min (吳伊敏).

Wu, along with thousands of others, plans to make a pilgrimage, which starts on Sunday at 11pm at the Jenn Lann Temple (鎮瀾宮) in Tachia (大甲), Taichung County, as an act of devotion to Matsu, one of the country’s most revered deities.

“Last year I attended the entire eight days and will do so again this year,” said Wu, whose father is Jenn Lann’s managing director. “You might feel tired physically ... but you will feel excited because lots of things are going on.”

One of Taiwan’s largest annual religious festivals, the pilgrimage of Tachia Matsu (大甲媽祖) sees devotees carry Jenn Lann Temple’s Matsu statue on a palanquin for more than 300km from its home to the Tienfeng Temple (奉天宮) in Hsinkang (新港), Chiayi County, and back again.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION: Temples offer rudimentary accommodation for pilgrims. Water and vegetarian food are provided for free by temples and believers along the route. To learn more, go to Jenn Lann Temple’s Web site at www.dajiamazu.org.tw. Extensive information in English and Chinese about the history and ceremonies of the pilgrimage can be found on the Taichung County Government’s Web site at mazu.taichung.gov.tw.

According to Wu, more than a million people showed up last year to what she said is the third-largest religious activity in the world.

Though the numbers Wu gives are anecdotal, there is no doubt that the pilgrimage attracts a huge following — one she suspects will grow this year due to the economic downturn and rising unemployment.

“People will come to the pilgrimage and pray for luck,” she said.

Participants can expect the pious to offer them free food and drinks along the way because it is a way for residents “to pay back the kindness of Matsu,” Wu said, though she added that there might be less charity this year because of the bad economy.

The procession comprises a series of palanquins from temples throughout the country that ferry Matsu and other senior Taoist deities through the rice fields and small villages of central-west Taiwan. The idols are accompanied by performing groups like the Eight Generals (八家將), martial lictors, entranced shamans, traditional musicians and dance troupes, all of which flock to the region to show off their piety.

In addition to the pilgrims who make the journey, devotees line the country roads and kneel to allow Matsu’s palanquin to pass over them — a ritual that is said to bring peace and good fortune for the coming year.

Though Wu will follow the procession for eight days, there are no rules stating that a person can’t participate for only a day or two. Wu said the best days to go are the first day, when Matsu is brought out of the temple (tomorrow at 11am); the fourth day, which is her official birthday; and the final day, when village gangs have been known to fight their way to the front of the crowd to protect Matsu as she is returned to her temple.

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