Ruisui’s hot springs are a reasonably well-kept secret, but that is changing rapidly. A couple of years ago during our last stay, there were just a few budget hotels, but now there is a proliferation of places to suit most budgets. From the high-end Butterfly Valley Resort (蝴蝶谷溫泉渡假村) with rooms starting at NT$8,000, to our hotel, the rather more frugal Huang Jia Hot Spring Villa (黃家溫泉山莊), at NT$1,500 for a simple, wood-paneled double with private spa.
There is an information booth with the contact details of all the hot springs in the area just outside of the station. Scooters can be rented nearby.
Although uncrowded, Ruisui’s hot springs may not be to everyone’s liking as the water is a murky, reddish brown color (caused by iron, the locals said). But once you get over your initial reservations the benefits to the skin are palpable — as long as you don’t shower afterwards.
The other main attraction, about 5km south of town along Provincial Highway No. 9, is Ruisui Ranch (瑞穗牧場), where city folk can sample life on a dairy farm. Well, they can sit down and relax while watching the cows and a family of ostriches go about their business.
RUISUI RANCH
It may not sound exciting, but the layout of Ruisui Ranch is such that you can easily fritter away a couple of hours sitting in the shade, taking in the Rift Valley scenery and snacking on the various milk-based products on offer at the ranch shop.
Meanwhile, the animals — especially the ostriches — provide the entertainment and are a guaranteed hit with the kids.
The clever folks at Ruisui even get visitors to pay for the pleasure of feeding their livestock, with bunches of grass available for NT$10.
The shop offers fresh milk (NT$30 per cup), milk puddings (NT$35), cheesecake (NT$30) and milk bread, steamed or fried (NT$10 and NT$15) among other produce. The ranch’s specialty, milk nougat, comes in four flavors: original; green tea and pumpkin seed; coffee and hazelnut; and pine nut.
Once the ruminants are fed, should you have a spare 30 minutes or so, just down Highway No. 9 at the 275km marker are the ancient Saoba Stone Pillars (掃叭石柱), which stand imposingly on a hill at the mouth of a picturesque valley.
The two upright rocks may resemble a poor man’s Stonehenge, but mock them at your peril. One of the sight’s information plaques relates that a few years ago when one of the stones fell down, the local government investigated the possibility of moving them. That was until a string of “strange phenomena” convinced locals and officials to leave them be.
Just across the road from the pillars is the Tropic of Cancer marker, where one can pose for a photo and ponder if the proximity of the Saoba pillars is merely a coincidence.
For the more adventurous, Ruisui is also the main stopping off point for rafting trips along the Siouguluan River (秀姑巒溪).
With a wide range of activities to choose from and so much natural beauty to take in, the East Rift Valley literally has something for everyone. Just make sure you take a book to wile away the hours on the train. VIEW THIS PAGE
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