VIEW THIS PAGE Pan’s Garden (夏姿林), a hidden gem nestled in a forested hillside in Neihu, is named after its owners — Peter Pan, and his wife, Wendy. Originally from Germany, Peter took his Taiwanese wife’s surname upon marriage. Wendy Pan (潘稜蓮) looks like an Asian version of a good German fraulein, with a thick braid, a headscarf and an apron tied firmly around her ample waist.
Their restaurant is warm and welcoming, with creamy pink walls, soft lighting, a wrap-around bar and two expansive outdoor patios. The cushioned sofas, high ceilings, arched entrance ways and canopy frames around the tables led my dining companion to comment that it felt like “a ski lodge out of a ’70s James Bond movie.”
We ordered two mains to share, and opted on the set for an additional NT$120, which included soup, salad, and dessert. The former came in a large porcelain tureen brimming with ham and potato cream soup, a rich and satisfying concoction. The romaine lettuce and mixed vegetables were crisp, fresh and served with two dressings on the side: a sweet basil vinaigrette and a tangy, creamy blend.
The main dishes, chicken with mustard sauce (NT$280), and the mixed sausage platter (NT$360), while simple fare, were savory enough to make any diet plan fly out the window as surely as the Darling children on their way to Never-Never Land.
A boneless split-chicken thigh was smothered in a rich, creamy, grainy-mustard sauce that spilled onto the plate, perfect for dipping the accompanying crisp potato wedges.
The sausage platter had four kinds of sausage: a chunky, meaty cheese sausage; a light, almost foamy pate-textured veal sausage; half of a flavorful bratwurst; and a small, juicy breakfast sausage. Potato salad with egg, onion and homemade mayonnaise was served alongside, with two kinds of mustard, and sauerkraut, which was served warm — a nice touch.
Address: Kangning Rd Sec 3, Neihu Dist, Taipei City (台北市內湖區康寧路3段75巷272號)
Telephone: (02) 2634-9079; 0936-117-022
Open: Tuesdays through Fridays from 5:30pm to midnight; Saturdays from noon to midnight; Sundays from 11am to midnight. Brunch will be available Sundays from 9am starting in April
Average meal: NT$900 for two people
Details: English and Chinese menu; credit cards accepted
Both dishes came with a side of steamed broccoli, carrot and tomato, and a basket of hearty black bread, with a crispy outside and soft, fresh middle. The dinner ends with a small bowl of fruit and yogurt. To protests of “Oh no, we’re too full!” Wendy Pan insisted “but it’s only fruit. It’s healthy.”
The only small disappointment was the artificial creamer available with the self-serve coffee, which is fresh enough to be enjoyed black.
The white wine and garlic fish (NT$300), which is tender and flaky, topped with grilled red and yellow bell peppers, and served with a bed of chewy, flavorful rice, comes recommended.
While Pan’s Garden is intimate enough for a romantic dinner for two, friendly enough to dine alone at, and easy-going enough for dinner with friends, it also lends itself well to larger events, with seating between the outdoor garden areas and indoors able to fit 50 for sit-down dining, and up to 80 for buffet and cocktails. VIEW THIS PAGE
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