Not long ago, an artist carrying such an instrument in the street was likely to be targeted by roaming death squads.
“All we could do in those dark times was keep our heads down,” says Naji.
The memories of those terrible days are still too strong for some.
“I don’t want to talk about that,” says 21-year-old Saad Alaydin, lowering his eyes. He prefers to show off his homemade hurdy-gurdy instead.
“A coconut, a few screws, some shells to make it pretty — and there you have it,” he smiles before walking off to return to class.



