Although there is an “erotic Lolita” style as well, revealing a lot of leg, it is seen by many in the Lolita establishment as a kind of sellout — most Lolita looks are decidedly staid and prim, underscore the androgynous sexuality of children and are strongly intended to cater to the tastes of women, without worrying about the eyes of men.
By far the best-known Lolita subset is Gothic Lolita, which brings in a strong emphasis on black, ribbons and lace. The ensemble may — but doesn’t have to — be set off by capelets, boleros, heart-shaped purses or hooded coats bearing bunny ears.
“It is very ambiguous,” Hirooka said. “Sometimes I’m not sure what qualifies.”
In large part because of the growing popularity of Japanese anime, there is an increasing interest in Gothic Lolita abroad.
Isobe’s brand is now preparing for a show in San Francisco, and Hirooka, who dressed Evanescence lead singer Amy Lee for the 2004 Grammys, is testing the waters of Los Angeles.
The Gothic & Lolita Bible — a quarterly magazine with a circulation of more than 100,000 — began an English edition for sale in the US this year.
But Lolita isn’t looking to take the world by storm.
Iconic as they are here, Lolita brands aren’t designed for export — they are too fine-tuned to the frustrations of women in Japan, and their rebellion against them.
“I don’t know if we can ever really hope to conquer foreign markets,” Isobe said. “But I think Gothic Lolita is the best example there is of the ‘Tokyo look.’ We are really on the edge.”
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