Springs fever

By Christopher Percy Collier
NY TIMES NEWS SERVICE , NEW YORK
Saturday, Apr 12, 2008, Page 16

Cooling off in one of the Ichetucknee River’s feeder springs in Fort White, Florida. PHOTO: NY TIMES NEWS SERVICE

It’s warm late-winter afternoon in northern Florida, and three young women are gingerly descending a half-dozen wooden stairs to a mouthwash-blue pool of translucent water ringed with cypress trees. Yesterday, they paddled the Ichetucknee River, a clear, narrow stream fed almost exclusively by nine major springs. Today, at this popular swimming hole in the town of High Springs, they want full immersion.

After taking a deep breath, Beth Ann Rutledge of Tallahassee swims down into the pool, an earthen cavity called Ginnie Spring that discharges approximately 110 million liters of water per day, feeding the cola-colored Santa Fe River.

As she drops beneath a limestone shelf at the edge of the spring, the opening widens. Passing a couple of fish, she reaches the entry point to the spring’s source, an aquifer that connects to scores of other springs through a network of underwater caves. She touches a toe to the white sandy bottom, and, in a cloud of bubbles, kicks back to the surface. “I did it!” she announces after her head pops up.

Beth Ann Rutledge floats back to the surface of Ginnie Spring in High Springs, Florida. PHOTO: NY TIMES NEWS SERVICE

Twenty away, a volleyball game is under way. Wet suits and scuba gear are strewn across a picnic table. A short distance farther, wooded campsites are thick with tents. A sign at a restaurant and dive shop depicts a mermaid with long blond hair blown back, not unlike the fluorescent-green aquatic eel grass that crops up beside these northern Florida springs, ever-bent by the continuous outward flow of water.

Paddling down the Ichetucknee River in Fort White, Florida. PHOTO: NY TIMES NEWS SERVICE

Visit natural freshwater springs of northern Florida, and you may find it impossible to resist plunging in, or at least riding along the surface in a kayak or tube. Typically surrounded by trees and lush vegetation, the springs are often an eerily beautiful blue or green. Some are so clear that kayakers photographed on them appear as if they were floating on air.

The purity of the water at Ginnie Spring has attracted the Coca-Cola Co, which has a permit to extract up to 2,271,00 liters a day from a deeply placed well there and bottles some of it as Dasani water. And with water temperatures a cool 20°C to 22°C, these alluring springs are unlikely spots for a nervous Northerner’s meeting up with an alligator, or so their aficionados insist.

IF YOU GO: GETTING THERE Northwest Airlines, China Airlines and Delta Airlines offer connecting flights to Gainesville Regional Airport. Passengers flying Northwest Airlines from Taipei change planes once, in Detroit; those using Delta Airlines change planes twice; and those flying China Airlines must make three connecting flights. Several companies provide rental car service at the airport. Additional information can be found at the airport’s Web site: www.gra-gnv.com.

At least 30 billion liters of water a day gush up out of the Floridan aquifer, according to the US Geological Survey, mostly in northern and central Florida, which has one of the largest concentrations of springs in the world. “It is one of the few places where you can actually look down into an aquifer,” said Harley Means, a geologist with the Florida Geological Survey.

IF YOU GO: WHERE TO STAY AND WHAT TO DO In High Springs, the Grady House (420 Northwest First Ave; 1-386-454-2206; www.gradyhouse.com) is a bed-and-breakfast with five rooms in a craftsman-style house within walking distance of downtown. It is easily the most upscale lodging option in town; nightly rates begin at US$100, and there is a cottage for up to four people. Less than a half a kilometer from Ichetucknee State Park in Fort White, canoes, kayaks and tubes can be rented at Ichetucknee Family Canoe and Cabins (8587 Southwest Elim Church Rd; 1-386-497-2150; www.ichetuckneecanoeandcabins.net). Canoe and kayak rentals are US$16 to US$18 and include a shuttle; tubes can be rented for US$4 to US$12. The park has user fees of about US$5 a person for canoeing and tubing. At Ginnie Springs Outdoors (7300 Northeast Ginnie Springs Rd, High Springs; 1-386-454-7188; www.ginniespringsoutdoors.com), rentals include tubes (US$6 to US$12), canoes and kayaks (US$10 to US$25), snorkeling equipment (US$8). A series of springs may be visited by boat or car at Blue Springs Park Inc (7450 Northeast 60th St, High Springs; 1-386-454-1369; www.bluespringspark.com) for a US$10 admission fee for adults. Most springs and waterways in Florida are publicly owned. A Web site created by the Florida Department of Environmental Protection, www.floridasprings.org, lists 17 state parks containing natural springs and includes geological information. Alligators can be found in numerous freshwater bodies throughout Florida. The state tries to keep them away from designated swimming areas in state parks. “You’ll be just fine if you’re careful and obey the rules,” said Harley Means, a geologist with the Florida Geological Survey.

The region’s limestone substrate is so permeable, and the water table so close to the surface, that water readily works its way up from the ground. Besides generating rivers, the springs create, in effect, windows and doorways into the aquifer itself.

While overshadowed by the state’s theme parks and beaches, the springs are well-known locally. Floridians use these waters for swimming, diving, snorkeling, canoeing, kayaking and tubing.

At Rum Island Springs, a cabin can be rented for the weekend beside a turquoise pool of water twice the size of a large Jacuzzi. Poe Springs, in an 80-hectare Alachua County park, has concrete steps leading into clear blue water. Blue Spring, Naked Spring, Johnson Spring and Kiefer Spring are all accessible from the privately owned Blue Springs swimming area in High Springs. More springs are preserved in more than a dozen state parks, including Troy, Manatee, Ponce de Leon and Wakulla Springs.

Ginnie Spring, where Rutledge was proudly taking her dip, is the anchor of Ginnie Springs Outdoors, described on its Web site as a campground and dive resort.

On a paddle upstream from there on the Santa Fe, along the Santa Fe Canoe Trail, a dozen more springs show themselves before flowing into the sluggish river, which is as wide as a three-lane highway. Its wooded banks are sparsely dotted with docks, lawn chairs and the occasional house. (Along this passage, on the river rather than in the springs themselves, alligator sightings are considered one of the attractions, and swimming is not advised.)

The canoe trip ends at O’Leno State Park, where the Santa Fe emerges from the ground after flowing for 5km underground farther upstream.

Ginnie Spring is in High Springs (population 3,600), a town with a historic district, craftsman homes and antiques shops that has also become the state’s unofficial natural springs capital, a base for weekenders and vacationers. The town has two dive shops, canoe and kayak outfitters and tube rental establishments. The Great Outdoors, a new restaurant, bottles a beer called Naked Ed Ale, named for Ed Watts, who for 20 years has greeted visitors to the lovely but remote Lilly Spring clad in only a necklace, wire-rimmed glasses and a loin cloth. (According to The High Springs Herald, ownership of the land where he had his hut is under dispute. The hut recently burned.)

High Springs is also the headquarters of a film production company specializing in high-definition underwater cinematography. Its owner, Wes Skiles, has shot underwater scenes for Imax, National Geographic and PBS. A loyalist to the Florida springs, he prevailed upon Sony Pictures to hold the premiere of The Cave, a horror film for which he did underwater shots, in High Springs.

“For water, springs are a way out,” Skiles said one day in February while negotiating the Santa Fe in his motorboat. “But they also have a way of drawing people in.”

High Springs lies in a rural pocket of Florida between Jacksonville and Tallahassee where muddy cattle farms are studded with moss-cloaked cypress trees. Residents of this area talk easily of hydrological features like springsheds, swallets (entry points into the aquifer for rainwater) and vents.

“You look at mud puddles around here a little differently,” said Cindy Butler, a nurse who moved to the area from Orlando 10 years ago to be close to the springs. “You start to wonder where they might go.” Many local stories involve sinkholes, which are geologically related to the springs. Janice Richardson, who works the ticket booth at the Priest Theater in High Springs, recalled one time when a tractor was swallowed up, and another, about three years ago, when an entire house went into a sinkhole.

More emphasis has shifted toward conservation. Drive down these rural farm roads and you’ll come upon small blue signs indicating you are coming into a Springs Conservation Area. Planning to tube the Ichetucknee? Get there early. The number of users permitted on the river is limited, and rules spell out what can and cannot be taken along.

“College kids used to float kegs of beer down here,” Bee Gee Wolfe, a canoeist, said at the put-in to the Ichetucknee. “Now it’s much more of an eco-tour.”