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[RESTAURANT REVIEW] Original Huatiao Chicken, Breeze Center Branch (原創花雕雞,微風店)

The huatiao chicken pot is touted as a "hot pot with a difference." The proof of the pudding ... PHOTO: IAN BARTHOLOMEW, TAIPEI TIMES

Back in 2006, the local media was awash with news of the sensational split between the young owners of I Pin Huatiao Chicken (一品花雕雞), a hot pot restaurant that routinely required patrons to wait well over an hour for a table. The convoluted legal case led to the creation of the "Original" Huatiao Chicken restaurant by Wang Chun-hwa (王春華), which continues to draw big crowds at its three locations. I Pin Huatiao Chicken can still be found at 207, Civil Blvd Sec 4, Taipei City (台北市市民大道四段207號) and the foodie blogosphere is replete with comparisons between the two.

The Original Huatiao at 10, Civil Blvd Sec 4, Taipei City (台北市市民大道四段10號) occupies a prime spot, and its enthusiastic staff continues to promote the "hot pot with a difference" passionately. Eight years since the launch of the service-intensive pot, which starts off dry and is made soupy over the course of a meal, some of the gimmickry has worn off, but the food still commands interest.

The signature dish is, of course, huatiao chicken (花雕雞鍋), which is available in a small pot for two to three people (NT$399). This is none the worse for the regular battery chicken in it, but for the fastidious patron, a similar pot with the more flavorful Taiwan native chicken is available for NT$698. The rich sauce, generously flavored with Huatiao rice wine, is served with chicken, capsicum and shallots in a cast iron pot. The staff adds mushrooms, different types of tofu and handmade flat noodles throughout the course of the meal, gradually thinning out the sauce. To finish, water is added to create a soup from what remains. Side dishes cost between NT$80 to NT$120. Five kinds of mushrooms are offered, and a mixture of these added midway through the meal gives the sauce a new dimension, making its flavor more complex.

Original Huatiao Chicken, Breeze Center Branch (原創花雕雞,微風店) Address: 10, Civil Blvd Sec 4, Taipei City (台北市市民大道四段10號) Telephone: (02) 2778-6338 Open: 11:30am to 2:30pm; 5:30pm to midnight Average meal: NT$500 Details: Picture menu, no English; credit cards accepted

A lighter option is the Macau spare rib pot (澳門肋骨煲, NT$499). Lighter still is the appetizer clam hot pot (沙蜆鍋, NT$299). The establishment also offers a flavorful and fiery chili sauce that is an excellent accompaniment to all of the dishes.

Unlike some other some hot pot meals, during which you have to keep half a mind on the cooking to make sure the pot's contents don't boil over, the wait staff is vigilant and ensures that ingredients are added at the correct time, leaving you free to enjoy the food and service.
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