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RESTAURANTS: Shizuka (靜香)

The braised meatballs dish, center, is one of the most frequently ordered options at Shizuka. Photo: Ho Yi, Taipei Times

A newcomer to the Yongkang neighborhood, Shizuka has a snug look that blends in with the area's cluster of restaurants and cafes. An adequate selection of sake, homemade foods, charming decor and relaxing atmosphere have helped the restaurant build up a loyal customer base quickly.

Situated just off the intersection of Lishui Street (麗水街) and Jinhua Street (金華街), the petite establishment is a placid refuge from the urban hubbub. Painted brick walls, wooden floors and elegant table lamps, which bathe the space in a warm light, brings to mind architecture from Japan's Taisho period (1912 to 1926).

A second-floor carpeted room covered with fluffy cushions is a favored spot for girl talk over afternoon tea (served from 2:30pm to 5pm). The limited selection of teas and coffees, served with a dessert of the day for NT$180 is a blemish on an otherwise sterling effort.

As for the home-style cooking, most of the signature dishes are cold appetizers designed to go with the tavern's collection of sake. The spicy dried cauliflower (NT$200) is a savory variation of picked vegetables in Hakka cuisine. The daikon salad (NT$200), seasoned with sea salt and olive oil and the jellyfish salad (NT$380), flavored with vinegar and sesame oil are popular choices among diners who favor the freshness of organic ingredients.

Restaurant review Shizuka (靜香) Address: 24-1 Lishui St, Taipei (台北市麗水街24-1號) Telephone: (02) 2396-6381 Open: Monday to Saturday from 2:30pm to 9:30pm; closed on Sundays and holidays Average meal: NT$650 Details: Menu in Chinese; credit cards not accepted On the Net: cherry-terri.blogspot.com

As the dishes are all homemade by the proprietor's mother, the menu is a creative fusion, based on family tradition at the dinning table. Other options include braised meatballs (紅燒獅子頭, NT$280) and spicy scallops served with shrimp sauce and French bread (NT$280). The sea cucumber plate (NT$800) takes three days to marinate and is then simmered for 10 hours with scallops.

Shizuka doesn't have a kitchen in situ, so the food is pre-made and re-heated upon serving. Judging from this reviewer's recent visit, the main courses are below par and render the establishment more of a cozy spot for an after-work drink and nibbles rather than a restaurant to satiate a big appetite.

Still, it is wise to make reservations during dinner hours as the restaurant only accommodates around a dozen customers and the seats fill quickly.

Final verdict: The restaurant is an agreeable spot for a small group of friends to enjoy a comfortable light repast, but won't win any prizes for its culinary efforts.
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