Can't see the trends for the designers?

By Suzanne S. Brown
NY TIMES NEWS SERVICE , NEW YORK
Thursday, Sep 20, 2007, Page 13

A model wears creations by Diane von Furstenberg. PHOTO: AFP

1. Over the rainbow

Spring be a season to embrace color, whether it's the pop of citrus orange, lemon lime, mango, candy pink, sky blue, acid green or poppy red. All are important in designer paint boxes. Some designers are boldly layering color in stripes, as Michael Kors does with a green and yellow sweater, or color-blocking, and as Lyn Devon shows in washed silk dresses. Fashion creators know that not everyone can pull off those colors, so they also offer a neutral palette of white, pearl gray, khaki and silvery blue. Monique Lhuillier wrote in her program notes that a box of macaroons gave her the idea for a yummy color palette of vanilla, mint, latte, pistachio and butterscotch.

2. Dress circle

Last spring might have been declared the season of the dress, but judging from their prevalence on the runways, the love affair continues. What's new is that the silhouettes are closer to the body, with fewer bubble and empire silhouettes and more slim and belted styles, as shown by such designers as Narciso Rodriguez in saturated colors and short hemlines, and Tracy Reese in sundresses, shirtwaists and evening designs.

A model wears creations by Diane von Furstenberg. PHOTO: AFP

3. Long and strong

While and even mini hemlines are still around, longer lengths have returned. And in spring's lighter, flowing fabrics they don't look heavy or dowdy. Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein offers T-shirt dresses, linen shirtwaists and skirts that dip to mid-calf. Chaiken includes a pencil silhouette, and Tracy Reese has soft, flowing dresses. The key to wearing this silhouette is knowing what flatters you, from just below the knee to skirts that reach above the ankles.

DKNY hikes up the waistline. PHOTO: AP

4. Seeing spots

Nothing's playful than polka dots, and designers can't get enough of them for spring. They're thinking big, using coin-sized dots rather than delicate Swiss dots in looks that go from beach to ballroom. For Lacoste's 75th anniversary, Christophe Lemaire splashes dots over navy or red bathing suits, while Ralph Lauren takes the look luxe with a black and white dotted silk faille skirt worn with a ruffled organza top. Carolina Herrera also likes the motif, using green dots on a pool blue chiffon background for a gown, and Monique Lhuillier has a gray-and-white dot-print taffeta dress for cocktails. Betsey Johnson plays with the pattern in her prom-themed collection.

A model takes to the cat walk wearing the latest creations by Anna Sui. PHOTO: AFP

5. Short circuit

From the high-waisted styles at Lacoste and Anna Sui to designs detailed with oversized buttons at Tracy Reese, and Donna Karan New York's (DKNY) look teamed with a matching vest and jacket, shorts run the gamut from sporty to dressy. Badgley Mischka likes silk faille short shorts with a bikini top and cropped tweed jacket, while Carolina Herrera shows her evening shorts puffy and paired with embroidered or lace tops.

A detail from Carolina Herrera's 2008 spring collection. PHOTO: AP

6. Getting waisted

Higher have been predicted for some time, and now they are back in force. Designers ranging from Max Azria to Peter Som and Alice Temperley draw attention to the waist with pants, skirts and dresses that are detailed with wide bands, skinny belts and bows. DKNY featured obi-like sashes, while Carmen Marc Valvo added wide leather belts to outfits. Start working on those abs; the waist is back.

Calvin Klein upped the waist and dropped the hems for his collection. PHOTO: AP

7. Garden party

Floral are a springtime perennial, and designers can't get enough of them. Ralph Lauren makes an impact with a group of gowns in jonquil, poppy and peony silk, while Michael Kors' prints, used in both swimwear and dresses, have an Impressionistic style. Carolina Herrera takes the motif in a different direction, embroidering a flower on a georgette top or showing dresses accented with raffia blossoms.

Calvin Klein upped the waist and dropped the hems for his collection. PHOTO: AP

8. Shine

Satin charmeuse are no longer reserved for winter. In shorts at Vera Wang, draped dresses at Chaiken, evening wear at Monique Lhuillier, Richard Chai and a slew of others, shiny fabrics are de rigueur. And don't forget metallic accessories; designers surely haven't.

Accessories by Anne Klein. PHOTO: AFP

9. Bold prints

Gals like their prints less cute or kitschy than the flower and polka-dot set will find what they're looking for in the wide assortment of artsy, graphic and ethnic prints designers are using. Diane von Furstenberg's island-themed "Under the Volcano" collection included totem print dresses, while DKNY used graphic prints, Peter Som played with an oversized floral or poppy print. The patterns look modern and not as retro as they've been in recent seasons.

Tommy Hilfiger thinks bright for spring. PHOTO: AFP

10. Extras

Accessories been shown on the runway like this for ages. Cartwheel brim hats at Ralph Lauren and floppy sun hats at Michael Kors, clutch bags, weekend-size totes, piles of bangle bracelets and long, swingy necklaces are among the accents that recurred in the shows. Skinny belts worn at the waist, and the freshest are metallic or in a color that doesn't match the outfit. Underfoot, there are fewer wedge heels and more spikes. And designers are still taking a shine to patent leather and oversized sunglasses.