1. Over the rainbow
Spring will be a season to embrace color, whether it's the pop of citrus orange, lemon lime, mango, candy pink, sky blue, acid green or poppy red. All are important in designer paint boxes. Some designers are boldly layering color in stripes, as Michael Kors does with a green and yellow sweater, or color-blocking, and as Lyn Devon shows in washed silk dresses. Fashion creators know that not everyone can pull off those colors, so they also offer a neutral palette of white, pearl gray, khaki and silvery blue. Monique Lhuillier wrote in her program notes that a box of macaroons gave her the idea for a yummy color palette of vanilla, mint, latte, pistachio and butterscotch.
2. Dress circle
Last spring might have been declared the season of the dress, but judging from their prevalence on the runways, the love affair continues. What's new is that the silhouettes are closer to the body, with fewer bubble and empire silhouettes and more slim and belted styles, as shown by such designers as Narciso Rodriguez in saturated colors and short hemlines, and Tracy Reese in sundresses, shirtwaists and evening designs.
3. Long and strong
While knee-grazing and even mini hemlines are still around, longer lengths have returned. And in spring's lighter, flowing fabrics they don't look heavy or dowdy. Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein offers T-shirt dresses, linen shirtwaists and skirts that dip to mid-calf. Chaiken includes a pencil silhouette, and Tracy Reese has soft, flowing dresses. The key to wearing this silhouette is knowing what flatters you, from just below the knee to skirts that reach above the ankles.
4. Seeing spots
Nothing's more playful than polka dots, and designers can't get enough of them for spring. They're thinking big, using coin-sized dots rather than delicate Swiss dots in looks that go from beach to ballroom. For Lacoste's 75th anniversary, Christophe Lemaire splashes dots over navy or red bathing suits, while Ralph Lauren takes the look luxe with a black and white dotted silk faille skirt worn with a ruffled organza top. Carolina Herrera also likes the motif, using green dots on a pool blue chiffon background for a gown, and Monique Lhuillier has a gray-and-white dot-print taffeta dress for cocktails. Betsey Johnson plays with the pattern in her prom-themed collection.
5. Short circuit
From the high-waisted styles at Lacoste and Anna Sui to designs detailed with oversized buttons at Tracy Reese, and Donna Karan New York's (DKNY) look teamed with a matching vest and jacket, shorts run the gamut from sporty to dressy. Badgley Mischka likes silk faille short shorts with a bikini top and cropped tweed jacket, while Carolina Herrera shows her evening shorts puffy and paired with embroidered or lace tops.
6. Getting waisted
Higher waistlines have been predicted for some time, and now they are back in force. Designers ranging from Max Azria to Peter Som and Alice Temperley draw attention to the waist with pants, skirts and dresses that are detailed with wide bands, skinny belts and bows. DKNY featured obi-like sashes, while Carmen Marc Valvo added wide leather belts to outfits. Start working on those abs; the waist is back.
7. Garden party
Floral patterns are a springtime perennial, and designers can't get enough of them. Ralph Lauren makes an impact with a group of gowns in jonquil, poppy and peony silk, while Michael Kors' prints, used in both swimwear and dresses, have an Impressionistic style. Carolina Herrera takes the motif in a different direction, embroidering a flower on a georgette top or showing dresses accented with raffia blossoms.
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