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Restaurants: Chuan Yang Yu Fang Restaurant (川揚郁坊小館)

Dishes served at Chuan Yang Yu Fang Restaurant look plain but taste divine. PHOTO: HO YI, TAIPEI TIMES

In a quiet alley behind Taipei City Hospital, Heping branch (台北市立聯合醫院和平分院) lies an inconspicuous restaurant known to all food connoisseurs. Outside the traditional establishment, diners - drawn to its praise-worthy Yangzhou cuisine and bargain prices - stand in long lines every day.

The presence of gray-haired Chinese and government officials testifies to the authenticity of the food. For those who are still in doubt, a mouthful of the restaurant's famed cold appetizers - dried shredded chicken with brawn jelly and cabbage salad - will earn Chuan Yang Yu Fang a spot on the "return to" list. The former dish consists of ginger slices and Zhenjiang vinegar while the later is an appetizing plate with peanuts and cilantro seasoned with soy sauce, vinegar and spicy oil.

The joint's specialties look plain, but exceed expectations. The shredded dried tofu (NT$160) with shredded chicken, ham and spring onion in a soy bean and vinegar sauce and stewed noodles that come in different flavors, all surpass expectations.

Chuan Yang Yu Fang Restaurant (川揚郁坊小館) Address: 2, Lane 163, Yanping S Rd, Taipei (台北市延平南路163巷2號) Telephone: (02) 2331-1117 Open: Daily from 11am to 2pm; 5pm to 8:30pm Average meal: NT$300 Details: Menu in Chinese; credit cards not accepted

Not ordering the juicy stewed lion's head meatballs - served in a bowl of cabbage-based soup - would be a big mistake. However, other popular seafood options include the fried codfish roll (NT$220) and pan fried eels (NT$370), a savory dish that goes well with spirits or beer.

The signature steamed dumplings and glutinous rice shaomai are also not to be missed. Ordering a dumpling assortment (NT$100) allows you to sample different varieties.

The red bean paste pancakes (NT$100) deserve a special mention as the creamy-tasting dessert scores high on many reviews.

If the extensive Chinese-only menu seems perplexing, ask the owner for suggestions. He always has his hands full, but is willing to help out.

Reservations are a must, and even ordering ahead is advisable as a number of signature dishes require two days of preparation. Last words of advise: remember to bring your own chopsticks to save the environment as the store only offers disposables.
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