Next to him, Colin Langhan, the boat's captain, chimed in. "Hobart's a place where you can still catch a fish, talk to fishermen on the docks, drop into a bar and meet the locals," he said. "You can't really do that in Sydney anymore."
MOUNTAINS TO CLIMB AND PLACES TO STAY
Getting there
Return flights from Taipei to Sydney start from NT$19,610, taxes excluded, with Thai Airways and Alitalia through www.eztravel.com.tw. Low-cost flights within Australia from Melbourne and Sydney to Hobart are available with JetStar and Virgin Blue, which offer one-way flights starting at US$69.
Where to Stay
Rooms at the Henry Jones Art Hotel (25 Hunter St; +61-3-6210-7700; www.thehenryjones.com) start at US$223 per night night.
The Islington Hotel (321 Davey St; 61-3-6220-2123; www.islingtonhotel.com) opened in 2006 and has three types of rooms: formal in the main house, contemporary in the garden house and standard and superior rooms in each. Doubles start at US$344.
For a blend of privacy and style, visitors can rent a restored Victorian-style home. The Kinvara House (86 Forest Road; 61-3-6278-8232; www.tasmanianindulgence.com.au) has sweeping views of the city starting at US$208 a night. For cheaper digs, doubles at the funky Edinburgh Gallery Bed and Breakfast (211 Macquarie St; 61-3-6224-9229; www.artaccom.com.au) start at US$103.
Discounts are available in the winter season (May to Sept.). Check www.wotif.com for last-minute hotel deals.
Thing to Do
The Salamanca Arts Center (77 Salamanca Place; +61-3-6234-8414; www.salarts.org.au) has contemporary art shows. Mount up for a three-hour descent of Mount Wellington with Island Cycle Tours (281 Liverpool St; +61-3-6234-4951; www.islandcycletours.com). The cost is US$56 a person.
Tasman National Park (www.parks.tas.gov.au) has lovely coastal scenery. Mount Field National Park, 80km from Hobart, has rain forests, waterfalls, alpine tundra and summer skiing. Hobart is also a jumping-off point to southwest Tasmania, a place where no roads go. Par-Avion Wilderness Tours (Cambridge Airport; +61-3-6248-5390; www.paravion.com.au) has tours starting at US$168.
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