In one final salute to the proletariat I caught a commuter train from Paveletskaya out to Domodedovo airport. At 63 roubles (US$2.50) it's the cheapest option. It was old rolling stock painted blue with a stark gray interior and, because it was the end of the day, it was filled with commuters going home. Old babushkas sat with plastic bags bursting at the seams. A guy dressed in black listened to a Russian MP3 player. Once we got past the golden ring to the apartment blocks and gray factories, the train filled with men wearing overalls and a side-parting in their hair. Then, as the train rumbled past the wooden dachas and through the beech forest on the edge of the airport, a woman wandered through the carriage selling turtle-shaped fridge magnets that lit up when you flapped its flippers.
Also see story:
How to do Moscow on the (relative) cheap ...
I had found the Moscow I had come to see.
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