Relying extensively on witness testimony and original documents, the museum offers a timeline of the Jewish community's ascent and destruction in Vilnius. Larger Holocaust museums may present comparable exhibits, but to gaze upon them here, after walking those very same streets, is especially affecting.
While we tried to shield our children from some of the more graphic museum exhibits on Nazi and Soviet atrocities, plenty in Vilnius engaged them. One afternoon we hiked up a cobblestone path to the Higher Castle Museum. First constructed in the 13th century, the castle offers lovely views of the city from its open-air roof, as well as exhibits of medieval weaponry. (If you don't want to walk up the hill, you can ride a funicular.)
Another walk brought us to the Gates of Dawn, a bulwark that blocks a narrow road. Once part of the city's original fortifications, it was later transformed into a small chapel containing a venerated icon that has long drawn pilgrims, including Pope John Paul II. On Cathedral Square, the city's main cathedral, which has several chapels and bell towers, is another prominent attraction.
In fact, the Old Town has an alluring mishmash of architecture — from Gothic to neo-Classical and more — and locals say Vilnius has one of the world's largest assortments of Baroque buildings. Whatever the style, the place sure is nice to gaze upon, whether you are lugging around an architectural tome or, as we did, simply enjoying going astray among the narrow streets.
WHERE TO EAT and WHAT TO DO
* Forto Dvaras, 16 Pilies St, (370-5) 261-1070; www.fortodvaras.lt. Typical Lithuanian food, heavy on the quaint atmosphere and sour cream, light on the wallet. Dinner for two is about 70 litas (US$27 at 2.6 litas to the dollar).
* Kazys Varnelis House Museum, 26 Didzioji St, (370-5) 279-1644. Works painted and collected by the artist Kazys Varnelis, viewable by appointment only. Admission is free. Admission to the following museums is 8 litas or less, depending on age and student status.
* Higher Castle Museum, 5 Arsenalo St; (370-5) 261-7453. Views of the city, along with military exhibits.
* Holocaust Museum, 12 Pamenkalnio St; (370-5) 262-0730. A small, deeply affecting museum on the massacre of the nation's Jews.
* Museum of Genocide Victims, 2A Auku St; (370-5) 266-3282; http://www.genocid.lt/muziejus/en/. A history of communist oppression.
* National Museum, 1 Arsenalo St; (370-5) 262-9426; www.lnm.lt. An overview of Lithuanian culture and art.
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