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Restaurant: Marco Polo

By Jules Quartly
STAFF REPORTER
Friday, Mar 09, 2007, Page 15

Marco Polo offers possibly the best dining experience in town. PHOTO COURTESY OF FAR EASTERN PLAZA HOTEL

Currently, one of the most outstanding places to dine in Taipei is at the chef's table in the Marco Polo restaurant on the 38th floor of the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel (台北遠東國際大飯店). The table appears to be a solid block of cream-white marble and is so large it is hard to communicate with the person opposite without raising your voice. Surrounding the table are scarlet colored, velvet King's chairs and these provide a startling conceit. Though the center of attention, our party was hidden from view by the high backs of the chairs and the overall effect was of privacy and exclusiveness.

Before dinner we were offered an aperitif of Swarovsky Brut Imperial by Moet and Chandon and reclined in the understated luxury of the Marco Polo lounge, with its contoured bay window view of the city and Taipei 101. Over NT$20 million was spent on the bar's interior design and it shows. Moving on, we were walked through the antipasti show room, made from black-veined white marble, where all the dishes are garnished. We were then seated at the chef's table in the restaurant, which is a combination of ebony, leather and marble.

With all this opulence anything less than an exceptional meal would have been a letdown. Head chef Fabian Altabert is a master of Italian cooking. He considers himself to be a philosopher of cuisine, which means you will only eat what he likes, it won't involve cream ("it covers the taste of food") and must appeal to the eyes, tongue and "olfatto, or nose. Bread fresh from the oven, dipped in oil and balsamic vinegar, was offered and then came the starter of four miniature dishes on one plate: tuna sashimi and avocado, oven-dried tomatoes with mushrooms, prosciutto paired with Parmigiano Reggiano, and marinated white beans with sweet shrimps. Taste buds awakened we were then treated to Bolognese-style dumplings served in a crystal clear consomme of chicken and porcini mushrooms.

With each course came a fresh glass and a new wine to complement the food. The king crab risotto enriched with crab bisque and roe, asparagus and basil was washed down with a Chianti Classico. The Guado al Tasso from Tuscany was even better and an ideal counterpoint to the braised lamb shank with Barolo sauce. A dreamy meringue with strawberries and lemon cream was matched with the dessert wine Muffato Botrytis. Botrytis is a fungus that draws all the juices from the grape, leaving just concentrated fruit to make the wine. It was unforgettable. Finally, Altabert appeared with homemade nougat and marshmallows that were cut at the table. It was a dramatic and fitting end to a perfect meal.

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