Another round of skewers arrived, this time with iwana, a small river fish that was already roasted. The entire fish is edible except for the head, which had sharp edges.
The meal finished with miso soup, pickles and a bowl of barley and rice with sticky mountain potato, a staple at dinner tables around Japan. Diners will insist they are full until the dessert arrives: grape sherbet on shards of ice, accompanied by green tea.
The meal and peaceful surroundings are enough to lull you to sleep, but consider strolling through the garden behind the restaurant, particularly on a moonlit evening when the fireflies are out, before taking the minibus back to the station, and the train back to the big city.
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