Festival fever

By Charlie Amter
THE GUARDIAN, COACHELLA VALLEY, SOURTHERN CALIFORNIA
Wednesday, Feb 28, 2007, Page 13

Cee-Lo Green of the music group Gnarls Barkley. PHOTOS: AGENCIES

Temperatures at the three-day Coachella festival in southern California regularly exceed 32°C, and the only water to be had comes out of a bottle; baking in the afternoon sun is part of the desert rock experience.

Now in its eighth year, Coachella, run by Los Angeles-based promoter Goldenvoice, has put Indio, one of nine cities that make up the Coachella Valley, on the map for Generation Y.

This year, Bjork, the Red Hot Chilli Peppers and a reunited Rage Against the Machine are headlining, with UK acts such as Amy Winehouse, the Arctic Monkeys, the Kooks, the Kaiser Chiefs and Lily Allen also on the bill.

Like Glastonbury, Coachella rose from humble beginnings. The first festival, in 1999, attracted just 25,000 people. This year, the organizers are expecting around 180,000.

After losing money during its first few years, it is now the US' premier music festival; it has spawned several imitators, most notably Tennessee's Bonaroo festival, all hoping to emulate its winning formula.

The Red Hot Chilli Peppers' lead singer Anthony Kiedis.

But just as hardcore fans of more established rock festivals bemoan the commercialization of their festival, so sun-freckled West Coast indie rockers complain about the death of the real Coachella, which takes place at the Empire Polo Club, just south of Palm Springs.

While just about everyone who wants to go to Coachella usually finds a way in, the crowd has become increasingly moneyed as ticket prices have risen (US$249 for a three-day pass this year). The Hollywood set has certainly moved in — you're as likely to bump into Drew Barrymore or Cameron Diaz as the long-lost girlfriend you last saw at the beer tent four years ago — and there is a much-buzzed about the VIP area, where misting fans keep the well-connected cool. Last year, Coachella was even blessed by Madonna, who insisted on coming to the desert to play a set for the influential crowd of music writers and DJs in the dance tent.

The Arctic Monkeys.

The Coachella set is more likely to be found at a hotel, where they can keep their Grey Goose vodka on ice for the after-gig party, than slumming it on the hard, cold desert ground. (The festival MySpace page is currently advising: "If you plan on booking a hotel, do it now!") But it's not all glammed-up Hollywood chic. Indie rockers from Seattle to Chicago now make the annual pilgrimage to catch up on the latest bands (this year's up-and-coming groups include Sweden's Peter, Bjorn and John and Brazil's CSS). The crowd is most certainly not to be confused with those at the annual desert freak-out Burning Man, in Nevada, although, Coachella trustafarians can be seen engaging in activities familiar to Burning Man aficionados (watching fire eaters, "tripping out" to the massive tesla coil that lights up the night sky every year).

British band Kaiser Chiefs.

British singer Amy Winehouse.

Like any self-respecting oasis, the Empire Polo Field appears to drivers arriving from nearby cities such as Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Phoenix like an emerald sea surrounded by desert and mountains. The days are hot, but dusk brings a merciful breeze that blows through tall palm trees behind the main stage.

Surrounded by the San Bernardino and San Jacinto mountain ranges, Coachella Valley is a breathtaking venue: stark white against the mountains, the festival's signature marquees reach for the desert sky. Last year, Iceland's Sigur Ros took to the main stage at sunset, crashing cymbals and reverb-ing guitars pinging off the mountains as a pink sky turned red and temperatures plummeted.

It might get chilly, but it's a hell of a spot for a campsite. The likes of Cameron and Drew prefer their stunning villas and hotels around Indio or Palm Springs (Frank Sinatra's former home is available to rent for around US$4,000 if you're feeling flush), but for the full 'chella vibe, all you need is a tent and a cloudless, starry night sky.

Coachella takes place from April 27 to April 29. This year's event is almost sold out, but Goldenvoice says it is hoping to make some tickets available at the gate. More information at coachella.com. Goldenvoice is also promoting the inaugural annual country music festival, Stagecoach, at the same site, from May 5 to May 6. Confirmed acts include Willie Nelson, Kenny Chesney and Neko Case. Tickets available at stagecoachfestival.com.